Tuesday, July 29, 2008

July 29, 2008

Haven't written a lot because I've really gotten into a nice routine and haven't had much to say. We are going sightseeing on Friday so stay tuned for more pics.

Thought I’d be pretty melancholy today with Jude and Peter gone but it was a really nice day. I had one of the best practices I’ve ever had. It felt like all of my joints were lubricated with oil, they all moved so nicely. I almost bound in Supta Kurmasana thanks to Jude’s coaching before I left. Got all the way through Ghaba Pindasana to put my chin on my hands and rolled all the way around. Back bends were amazing! I used Dena’s backbending method to roll up my vertebrae one at a time and was able to really get height. No compression in my low back at all. Sharath dropped me back and gave me coaching on my breathing during drop backs. No pain! Woo hoo!!!! Didn’t get up in headstand very much at all. I went all the way over yesterday and rolled over my hand. It’s still a bit painful so I was a bit timid today.

Breakfast at Alia’s with Ida, now my only housemate, followed by Sutra’s class (really getting interesting now) and then went to the stand up dosa bar for some dosas with Basia. She wanted me to go with her so she wasn’t the only westerner there (tall and blonde as well...she definitely stands out!) Lunch at Anu’s after doing some sutra reading and then met Christian and Eva (both Aussies but until recently Yoga Academy teacher trainees in Auckland). They arrived on Saturday and are settling in.

We spent the afternoon at the house chatting and them checking email, etc. A quick round of the neighborhood shops to check out different clothing options and then they accompanied me to register for my second month at the shala. Guruji was there in the office. I don't think it was one of his best days. I said hello and he looked at me as if he were trying to place me. It was still nice to see him though. Sharath moved me up to a 6AM start time. I’m happy about that. It will give me a bit more time in the morning.

Now that Peter and Jude are gone I want to get into a bit of a different routine where I spend more time reading and meditating. Really working on my inner journey. Nothing to distract me. Well, almost nothing. No one warned me that practicing at this level made your hormones go crazy!!!! Unfortunately no interesting, unattached men in sight. Oh well, that would just make me crazy anyway. I keep having to remind myself...this is a spiritual journey! :)

A fond Farewell, July 28, 2008


It's with great sadness that I said goodbye to Peter and Jude today. Having them here for the last month has been such a blessing. Not only have they "shown me the ropes" in Mysore but my friendship with both has deepened. I have rarely had friends as loving and giving as the two of them.
Thanks guys for the laughter, the stories, the sharing, the great conversations, the evening fruit salad ritual, pongol, halva and, of course, Jude's wonderful chai. Knowing you has enriched my heart and soul and I'll miss you greatly. Not only here but seeing you regularly in Auckland.

Friday, July 25, 2008

First Drop Backs, July 24, 2008

Haven’t written in awhile. One day melts into the next and everything revolves around the practice. It’s such a unique experience.

My practices have been coming along really nicely. I’m looking less like a dead fish flopping on the shore during Chakrasana (a way to exit a posture you do lying on your back by lifting your legs over your head and pushing up so that you don't roll over your neck (in theory). I’m actually doing headstand in the middle of the room...today for 10 breaths. So, I’ll be ready in tomorrow’s led class. It’s been flowing okay, not as focused as I’d like but not totally unfocused either. And the BIG news!

Last week Sharath asked me if I’d done my backbends as he saw me getting ready to leave. “Yes”, I said confidently and went into the changing room. “Oh oh I thought, I know where this is leading”. The next day Sarashati hovered over me as I was doing my backbends and I ignored her. She just squashed me into forward bend afterwards and let me go. And then Tuesday this week Sharath asked me again if I’d done backbends. “Yes”, I replied with a big smile and tried to get past him. No such luck. He asked, “Who helped you?” “No one”, said I truthfully, to which he replied, “Tomorrow you wait.” Hmmmm.

Sooo, after doing my practice (I’m surprised I wasn’t a nervous wreck!) and finishing with my backbends I stood up to wait. Sharath saw me standing and came over. The dreaded dropbacks! I really never thought I’d be able to do these. These are when the instructor holds you from the front and you go back into a full back bend from standing after doing three half backbends. The thought of going back never particularly bothered me. I used to do backflips into the water all the time when I swam. But I was afraid of what the backbend would do to my low back; especially how it would feel when they jerked me up. But, wonder of wonders it felt good. Sharath was not impressed with my slapping my hands to my thighs when I came up, but I was totally impressed that I did it!!!

The other big news is that I learned how to make Jude’s chai today (see recipe at the side). For those of you who have not tasted, it’s the best chai on the planet. Made better by all of the great, fresh and very potent spices here. She’s told me how to make it before but this time she talked me through it so it’s embedded in my brain. I actually made it again this morning for a big breakfast that Joseph made. Dosas and fruit salad with a savory subgee and coconut chutney. Delicious! I made soy chai for Rachel (a vegan) which also turned out well. Joseph invited Basia, another senior teacher who is Polish / Canadian but has lived in Japan for the last 10 years. She’s now moving to Poland and Norway but travels quite a bit teaching. He also invited a woman named Katherine who is an academic from Oxford. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to speak with her very much.

Yesterday we all went to the Southern Star for the reopening of the pool. It had been closed since I got here for refurbishment. It’s nice to have a pool so close. It’s just as nice as Wind Flower, although the setting is not nearly as tranquil. I had a veggie burger (which tasted like curry) with fries. I also had a manicure, pedicure, brow shape and head and shoulder massage for $32 NZ!

I started another chanting class today. This one concentrates on specific prayers that Guruji wants the yoga students to learn. I don’t know what they mean but I was buzzing afterward. I loved it.

My yoga sutras class is getting pretty intense. We’re getting into some really interesting topics, like the cosmology of the universe. It’s fascinating, a lot like quantum physics. I’m reading two translations at the moment. Iyengars which is completely dry and a beautiful little book that I got for 30 rps at a local ashram. This is the one that Laxmish actually reads from. There are a couple of ashrams around here that have books. I’ll have to check the other out.

Between the yoga sutras, the two chanting classes and the back bends I’ve been in a really interesting head space the last couple of days. I go between being completely happy and content, almost blissful (wow, look at that cool butterfly kind of blissful) to wanting to cry for no reason. I guess my inner journey is starting in ernest.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Wind Flower: my first Ayurvedic massage, July 20, 2008






Feeling great today. Best I’ve felt since I got to India actually. Really hot again.

Woke up at 4AM and had a terrible meditation. Just couldn’t focus my mind. Pretty good practice though. A bit stiff as I didn’t do a lot of pre practice warm up. Knees have been a bit tender recently as well. It was a nice flow and I found myself not worried about too much (will he stop me, won’t he). He didn’t. It would have been even better had I been a wee bit more open. Tomorrow should be good. Got up in headstand then got scared and came down. The main thing that’s stopping me now is fear. I think I’m strong enough to do it and I have a sense of balance. I just need to get over my fear. Hmmm, something to confront. Can’t wait to try it tomorrow. Ghaba Pindasana is getting easier and easier to get into I’m happy to say. Didn’t bind in Supta Kurmasana but held a washcloth so that was okay.

Can I just stop here and say how incredulous I am that I can even do this practice? Me, who was called “cupcake muscles” by my parents when I was younger, am doing Ashtanga yoga. And doing poses that I would never have believed I could do in a million years! I just absolutely love this practice. It’s taught me so much about myself and helped my stretch (literally and figuratively) beyond where I thought possible. It’s also taught me patience. It’s not something I consider myself terribly “good” at. I don’t have the beautiful practice that many people I know have and that’s humbling, but I can’t believe the progress that I continue to make.

I did get a wonderful compliment today though. A woman who arrived at the same time I did, Daniella from Serbia, always practices behind me. She likes the back of the room, I like the second row. She told me today how I have a nice practice. That was so wonderful to hear. You’re not actually supposed to make those judgements, but we all do. She’s only been practicing 4 months, but still, a bit of a boost.

After practice I just felt so, I don’t know, settled. Like I don’t have a care in the world. I can only remember feeling this way a few times in my life. It’s wonderul.

Yoga sutras at 10AM and then I met Jude and Peter at Wind Flower, a Balinese type spa and mini resort wayyyy on the other side of Mysore. Lovely, especially by Indian standards. Simple, clean and tranquil. We hung out by their pool for awhile (Joseph joined us), had a really nice lunch in an open air restaurant and then Peter and I had massages.

My first Ayurvedic massage. Two people work on you at once. You’re completely naked except for a pair of disposable “panties” which are nothing more than a long narrow piece of cheesecloth like material and a piece of elastic that goes around your waist. They started with me in a chair. Once washed my feet and the other massaged my head. Then I moved to a table. It was a plactic picnic table kind of deal with a stiff rubber mat shaped like a person glued to it. More cheesecloth to lay on. After the full body massage they take you to the shower (traditionally they actually bathe you, but I opted for self serve). The give you this gritty substance to wash your body in to absorb the coconut oil and a really thick shampoo. Then there was 10 minutes in a jacuzzi. A bit strange but good.

The whole day just added to my feeling settled, relaxed and happy. It’s a good feeling.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

July 19 2008

Totally lazy day. We have a new housemate. A woman named Ida (pronounced Eda) from Denmark. Young girl still in uni, studying economics. Very sweet. We took her to Alia’s for breakfast. The Scotts are leaving today so said goodbye. I just couldn’t get off of my chair to leave it was so comfortable out there in the gardens. Bruno is so sweet and I even saw Alia and little Nalu today. Had my usual french toast with honey and a side of a scrambled egg with lots of spiach. Peter and Amna came by as well and got more of a chance to speak with her.

Walked back to the ashram to buy another copy of Patangalis Yoga Sutras (the one Laxmish reads from) and picked up some fruit. Spent about an hour talking to Peter and Joseph and then it was lunch time!

Tried a new Indian restaurant called 6th Main. Good food but hot. Much hotter than Nalpack. Atmosphere nice though. Open air concept and they play a completely eclectic mix of big band and 70’s music. After that we wandered down to Barista for a Mango smoothie. That’s about the extent of energy I plan to expend today.

Guruji's Birthday, July 18, 2008

Guruji’s birthday (see full set of pics and be sure to view it in slideshow). Up early. Jude greeted me with some Miso and a cup of chai. Wonderful! Early breakfast at Alia’s with the Scotts before going home to get ready for Guruji’s birthday party. We arrived a little after 11 to a large, very nice (by Indian standards) hall. This was Sharath got engaged and married apparently. It was a bit of a madhouse. Filled to capacity on the ground floor with theatre type seating and a stage at the front. Guruji and Saraswati were sitting at the side of the stage and there were a series of students performing various songs and dances. Most of the students in Indian garb and many many looking very uncomfortable wearing sarees for the first time. I opted for an outfit I had made at Badsha’s (not a saree).

Then Guruji went up on stage and the students formed a line to wish him a happy birthday. There was a minder trying to keep the line moving and trying to stop photos so that it wouldn’t take so long but people were milling at the stage with their cameras anyway. I got pictures of Peter and Jude with Guruji but they didn’t turn out very well. In fact most of my pics were blurry unfortunately. I got over confident with my camera and didn’t take doubles on the automatic settings.

When it was my turn I walked on stage, knelt and took the prana from the area of his feet. You couldn’t touch his feet because they were covered with flowers. This year for the first time they didn’t want you to touch his feet. Not sure why but it must have something to do with his health. I looked him in the eye and said Namaste, trying to convene my gratitude to him for what the practice has meant to me and what studying here, in this lineage means to me right now. I’m sure he got it on some level.

Dinner was amazing!!!! There were long, thin trestle tables with banana leaves and cups of water laid out. We mopped up the dew drops from the banana leaves and didn’t drink the water in the cups. Being Brahmin (of the priestly caste) they can only be served by Brahmin cooks and Brahmin servers. They were in the traditional garb of a lungi with a Brahmin “thread” over their shoulders. These Brahmin servers would come down the line with buckets of various foods (spiced rice, white rice, various subgee (vegetable) dishes both raw and cooked, rice pudding, some sort of coconut square, birthday cake and the real dessert of a huge pastry with icing sugar and some sort of custardy substance. This was all followed by more rice and curd (yogurt) which is supposed to cool you down after consuming all of the chilis in the subgees. I forgot to save the rice pudding to mix with the curd which is extremely sour so I didn’t have that. It was wonderful food but wayyy too much.

Rickshaw back home and a lazy night talking to Rachel. We had a really good chat (for about 6 hours...when do you ever have time to talk to someone in that depth???) She’s very disciplined. She’s got a beautiful practice, having practiced for 6 years and is getting a number of second series postures. She’s also a vegan and very strict. She cured herself from very bad rhumatoid arthritis a few years ago (she’s only in her mid 30’s as well). She’s made a commitment to come back here in January and hopes to come back several times over the next couple of years. She and her husband sound like a really interesting couple. She and I showed each other pics on our computers. She had a number of pics from the Burning Man festival which they go to every year. That’s on my list of things to do. So much to do in this big, wide world!!!!!

Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My! July 17, 2008



Complete set of pics from day including both temples, the palace, the bird sanctuary and some random pics taken from the car of life in rural India.  Be sure to view in slideshow.

Well, to be more accurate: Temples and Palaces and Crocodiles oh my!  Not to mention the monkeys (see above me in pic to the left).  

First of 3 days off. They are preparing for Guruji’s birthday. I woke up at my usual 5AM and got ready for a big excursion (I’d suggest the slideshow feature to view the pics). I met Kelly and Eva at 7AM at Anu’s and took off in what looked to be a 1970’s vintage mercedes. The good news was that it was nice and roomy. The bad news is that it had never had its shock absorbers replaced. “Fasten your seat belts girls, it’s going to be a bumpy ride!”

Our first stop was Somnathpur Temple about 33 kilometers outside of Bangalore. It took an hour to drive that 33 kilometers. Driving through rural India is an experience. Really, similar to Mysore but on a smaller scale. Villages with dusty streets, few or now sidewalks / footpaths, lots of dust, lots of trash, shops selling all sorts of colourful wares and people everywhere. Lots of oxen drawn carts (the one I really wished I’d gotten a picture of is the oxen drawn cart carrying two motorcycles! Analog vs digital. :)

I saw a number of people working fields of all kinds. Some of them looked like wheat but could have been ragi or finger millet, a type of millet high in protein. Others were definitely lentils or dal and still others rice. We kept driving over patches of what looked like hay that had fallen off of a cart. Our driver made no attempt to avoid these patches even though there were obviously people tending to them. At first I thought that was rude, then I realised there were too many of them for them to have been accidental spillages. I asked the driver, who’s english was pretty good and he said that it was dal. They put the dal on the road and let the cars separate the lentils from the stalks! That’s using mechanisation in a non mechanised world!

Many of these fields had streams running beside them and 2 or 3 times I saw lots of brightly coloured sarees laying out to dry. The woman had obviously washed their clothes in the stream and were drying them on the tops of the plants. It was actually quite beautiful.

We got there an hour before the temple opened. I didn’t really want to get out of the car because as soon as we pulled up half the village approached us with their hands out and I knew I didn’t have enough 10 rupee notes with me to satisfy everyone (note to self...stock up on 10 rupee notes whenever you sight see....although it’s always a bit of a mission to have enough of these for day to day living).

Not to worry, our driver assured us. Another temple, much newer (well the one we were waiting to see was built in 1268 so that wouldn’t have been hard) just down the road. We were keen to walk as it looked like quite a nice walk but our driver insisted on doing what he was hired for...down a grass track with more pot holes that you could count (did I mention the lack of shocks on the car?) We were a bit afraid of a flat and God only know whether or not he had a spare, but he made it without any problems. The temple was small and very brightly painted with a couple of small rooms with deities that I was not familiar with. There was a state of a snake and a big golden pole. I should be able to relate what all of these are as there was a very nice older gentleman that insisted on giving us a tour (for a donation of course). He was teaching a young brahmin boy and would punctuate his tour by asking the boy to fetch him certain things, like a photo album of obviously some big dignitaries visiting the temple when it was opened (about 6 years ago from what I could ascertain), a couple of flyers describing God knows what, a few bananas and a bag of sweets. He spent an our with us and was very thorough so I should be able to tell you all about what I was seeing, but I can’t because I did not understand a single thing he said! I think Eva and Kelly got some of it but I got not a word. It was a lovely spot and a lovely temple so I enjoyed my time there nonetheless.

Onto the main temple then. Interestingly the admission was 5 rupees for Indian citizens and 100 rupees for all foreigners. That seems to be the going rate everywhere we went today.

This temple was absolutely stunning! Incredibly intricately carved with a main structure around the perimeter wish small pooja or prayer rooms running every few feet and a smaller inner structure that was absolutely gorgeous. Some of the carvings were quite interesting as they depicted couples having sex. Well, I guess India is the land of the Kama Sutra.

It was so peaceful there. Very few people. Just lovely.

After about an hour of wandering around we were off again. Our next stop was the summer palace of Tippu Sultan (after another hour long drive through rural India). Apparently Karnataka, the state we are in was ruled for centuries by the Wodeyer dynasty except for 30 years when it was usurped by Tippu Sultan and his father before him. This palace is known for the fact that every inch is covered with paintings. In it’s day it must have been quite magnificent, but now it’s decaying and I found it quit sad. There were other historical artifacts and paintings that were so poorly lit you could barely see them.

After another short drive we found ourselves in a fort. Apparently this was built on a river fork so they made it into an island by closing off the land side and building fortresses on the river banks. There were several items of interest in here but we just stopped at the dungeon where Tippu Sultan kept many British prisoners (some for up to 7 years). This didn’t look like any fun as they prisoners were chained standing with their arms outstretched between two pegs. During the rainy season the dungeon would fill with water covering some prisoners to the neck, according to our unofficial tour guide (we found out he was unofficial after he gave us the tour and asked us for a handout). You have to wonder though what happened to the shorter of the prisoners...

That treatment pissed off more than one British soldier which eventually let to Tippu Sultan's undoing...the site where his body was found was marked a fee hundred meters from the dungeon.

Our next stop was another larger temple. The Ranganathaswamy Temple is apparently quite famous and is much more active with lots of shops selling their wares along with people hawking everything from wooden flutes, bracelets and small deities. It’s hard to get rid of these guys they get right in your face. Not to mention the beggars. Needless to say I was out of 10 rupee notes and one of the other girls had to pay the bakshish (bribe) to get our shoes back after seeing the temple.

This temple was okay, but I didn’t like it nearly as much as the other. What was interesting was the monkeys...obviously well fed monkeys by their pictures.

Our last and my favourite stop of the day was the Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary. This was lovely! You didn’t really see any birds unless you were on the river, so we paid 500 rupees for a private boat (to the chaigrin of the many Indians waiting for the public boat which was filled to capacity).

It was brilliant! We say plovers and courmarants and storks and all sorts of birds. Not to mention a number of fresh water crocodiles!!!!! That was cool. Got some great pics of birds.

More importantly for that 1/2 hour on the river I felt normal again. It’s amazing what being in nature does for me. It grounds me and brings me back to what’s real. It centers me and makes me feel good about myself and the world. I loved it!

Back home for a light meal of fruit salad. I was soooo tired and strung out at the same time! An adventure like that at home would be one thing, but here it’s just exhausting!!!!!

Kirtan, July 16, 2008



Short post today. Not much happened until I was leaving Anu’s after my usual after chanting smoothie (banana, date, fig and almond). Ganesh asked me if I was coming to Kirtan. My ears perked up immediately. Kirtan? I’ve been hoping to attend some Kirtan while I was here. I haven’t done that since Dallas days. Both with my very first Iyengar teacher, Lisa and the couple times I took darshan (blessing) with Ammachi.

I love Kirtan. Basically it’s the chanting of Gods and Goddesses names in very simple songs, some quite ancient, some more modern. The most recognisable chants or Om Nava Shiva and Hare Krishna but there are many many others.

Anyway I went down to Santosha and took part in my first Kirtan. There were only about 12 people there and it was really wonderful. Ganesh played drums and someone named Peter (very cute) played the traditional Indian instrument I can never remember the name of. Not great pics as I was not going to use a flash and needed a tripod. Hopefully they will do this regularly.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

John and Lucy's Anniversary Party, July 15, 2008

CRAZY busy day. Practice was good but started out a bit stressful with my chiropractor’s daughter running around the shala for the second day. Apparently the new nanny doesn’t like it when she cries and brings her to the shala. She wanders in and out and cries first from mummy then daddy. Very distracting and dangerous to her with all of those people doing jumpbacks. Karen, Sean’s wife sat her down next to her and continued to practice. This was after Sharath had her for a period of time. I couldn’t take it. I’m not spending all of this money for my yoga teacher to babysit someone’s child. So when I was called in I went up to Karen and asked her if she and Sean could come at different times so that the baby wasn’t in the shala. She told me that I should appreciate what they are going through. Yes, far be it that one of them should miss a practice...they can just inconvenience the other 50 people in the room. I told her I thought that it was quite inconsiderate. By the time I got back from the changing room she was gone. I was, of course in my head debating with myself whether I’ve done the right thing and thinking that I’m never going to be able to get another chiropractic adjustment!

When I cam home and mentioned it to Peter, Jude and Rachel they were quite supportive. Rachel said that all of these kids and the parents that can’t control them have been a real problem for her since she’s arrived. Hmmmm, watch this space.

I was off to Yoga Sutra class at 10 and at 11 came back home to the already started surprise party for John and Lucy Scott’s 14th anniversary. The girls (their daughter India and her friend Kelsey planned it). Joseph made his famous fruit salad and Bill and Lisa, Peter and Amna and David and Simmi (an American couple living in Oz) were there. The food was wonderful topped off by Jude’s exquisite Chai. It was a real Kiwi contingent and everyone, of course has an Ashtanga practice. Wonderful conversation. I just love being surrounded by people like this.

I met Jude at KR Circle after a call to Australia (the power, of course, went out just as I was dialing out on Skype). That’s 5 power cuts today. It’s getting a bit ridiculous!!!

She and Peter had a dentist appointment and then Peter went home and Jude and I went shopping for deities. I found some wonderful sandalwood ones. Of course I didn’t have enough money with me so I had to get on the shop owners motorbike to go to the ATM. Boy was that an experience and did I get the looks. I did not ride side saddle like the Indian women. I had my skirt hiked up above my knees and on the back of a bike being driven by and Indian man it caused quite the scene. It was fun though darting in and out of traffic. He thought it was funny!  See pic of shop.  And of the shop next door!  Don't those chickens look appetising? 

Back to Badsha’s after for my final fitting. All of my clothing should be finished by Guruji’s birthday.

Dinner was hummus on a kohlrabi, a piece of toast and some miso Jude made me.

We started to watch the movie “Sicko” by Michael Moore and...guess what...the power went out again! Off to bed now. Special led class tomorrow as Thursday is moon day and Friday Guruji’s birthday. The shala is going through many preparations and Vedic ceremonies on Thursday to celebrate.

Monday, July 14, 2008

July 14, 2008




I feel like I had a productive day today. Started out with a great meditation. Really felt focused and felt as though I drifted away. Carried it through to my practice as well.
I was a woman on a mission today - determined to get to Supta Kurmasana and then Gaba Pindasana and not get stopped. I sailed through to Navasana. I felt strong, focused, and it really flowed. I managed to almost get my hands together in Supta Kurmasana and then asked for Saraswati’s help. I got into Gaba by myself and rolled around about a billion times only going about 3/4 of the way. Finally went up into Kukkutasana. I know Sharath saw me and he gave me a verbal adjustment in Upavistha Konasana afterward. Sooo, hopefully I can make it through the primary series. We’ll see how it goes.

Had a long leisurely breakfast at Alia’s today. Met the Scotts and saw some friends of theirs, Tom and Sasha. Tom is from Ireland (no sign of my Irish lad today unfortunately) and Sasha from Russia. Tom trades for a living and Sasha is hoping to become authorised to teach yoga but she’s recently torn her miniscus. They live here permanently (at least for the next 11 months) and then they may move to France.

Beautiful weather. The best we’ve had. Sunny and HOT (in the 90’s). I actually took some better pics of Chez Mr. Joseph so check those out in the post below. Came home around noon and studied my Yoga Sutras and even started to read the Bhagavad Gita. Peter maintains that that’s a political doctrine designed to keep the lower castes and women in their place so I’ll be interesting to have a read. This is a very easy copy recommended by Laxmish for chanting class.

Lunch at Anu’s. I’ve been invited by Kelly (the Canadian actuary) and Eva (the Swedish Lawyer) to tour some palaces on Thursday which will be great. Too hot, came home to take a nap and do some more reading.

Monsoons finally seem to be here. The last two days it’s POURED for an hour around 4PM. I just made it to chanting class and the skies opened up. Laxmish said I was very clever because I arrived early; he was still teaching the Sandskrit class before chanting.

Had a quick smoothie at Anu’s and now I’m off to bed. Not so lonely today. Really feel good about things.

July 13, 2008

Back in practice. My first led practice with Sharath...but it wasn’t. Sharath led the first one and Saraswati did ours. But Sharath popped out just before Navasana to adjust people in Marichyasana D and then Supta Kurmasana and Bhuji Pindasana. I struggled through Navasana and he saw me, I didn’t get an adjustment in Supta Kurmasana and barely got into Gaba Pindasana. He stopped me. RRRRR, I was afraid of that. If you can’t do a pose then you’re stopped and have to sit out until finishing postures. I soooo wanted to go through (and have been) the whole primary series. I don’t particularly want to ever do second series but I do want to be able to complete the whole primary series including Chakrasana and headstand (not against a wall). Then, to make matters worse he asked me if I was registered and made me go get my card! I think Jude was more upset than I but it wasn’t fun. I was a bit upset all day that I was stopped.

On the positive side though, my practice until that time was great. It really flowed and I was strong. I even got up in headstand...and then fell over barely missing the woman in front of me. Oh well.

Breakfast at home (almond butter and some yummy banana carrot cake from a guy who sells bread, hummus, tofu and juice to the students as they come out of the shala).

I started my Yoga Sutra class today at 10. Again with Laxsmish. He’s such a sweetie. The Yoga Sutras are the bible of yoga. They were written (they think) by a sage named Patanjali. He also wrote treatises on grammar and medicine (Ayurveda), thus encompassing language, the body and spirituality. Does this sound familiar to anyone? For all of my Tony Robbins friends it should...physiology, focus and language (it’s just a
fu$#ing triad!) Written thousands of years ago. It doesn’t talk about the asana practice at all, but the other components of yoga and the ultimate goal of all yoga (stilling the mind). We’re using Iyengar’s translation which I happened to bring with me with the intention of reading. Very glad I’m taking the class, it will give me a structured environment to finally study the Sutras.

Big lunch today back at the Southern Star. Buffet and we even had dessert! Met Joseph and some more friends who have just arrived for Guruji’s birthday; a couple from Canada and a woman who’s moving from Japan (although originally Canadian) to Finland and then maybe Poland. Lots of interesting people here.

Transitions, July 12, 2008

I couldn't stand it anymore.  I had to do a self practice (today is Saturday so rest day).  3 days off is enough and this will be a short week anyway with Guruji's birthday.  I got up at 5:30 and meditated in the Puja room.  I didn't warm up very much but just went straight into my practice.  I can honestly say that it was one of the worst practices I've done in years!  I was so stiff, I could barely move.  I skipped headstand, Setu Bandasana and I think a couple of others I was so pissed off.  Oh well, there are days like that.

Not only am I going through transitions in my life at the moment, the shala is as well and today it started to affect me.  All of the older students are really mourning the fact that Guruji isn't teaching anymore and that he's hardly around.  They miss him terribly.  I can understand why.  According to them their practices with Guruji were very intimate.  Not many people in the room and although he was very tough and strict he was also very very compassionate and kind.  

Sharath is definitely taking over and, as you would expect, is making his mark on the shala.  He's implemented an ID system (we have cards now which, apparently you never used to have) and if you didn't register ahead of time you cannot practice in the main shala (during Sharath's times) but rather you practice later with Saraswati.  Almost none of the long term (older) students have registered so there are some very experienced people practicing with Saraswati.  Senior teachers like John and Lucy Scott and other very advanced practitioners who are into 4th series.  None of them like it very much and most feel put out because of their long going relationship with Guruji.  I can completely understand how they feel and completely understand the grief they are processing with losing not only their teacher, but also a member of their family.  Many of these people were married by Guruji (including Peter and Jude) and he's been a central part of their lives for a very long time.

While I understand this I also have to distance myself from it.  I don't have this relationship with Guruji.  I was lucky enough to have practiced with him when he came to NZ in 2002 and got A LOT of attention from him but I don't have a relationship with him.  My teacher will be Sharath or another senior teacher to be determined.  My path will be different and it makes me sad on one hand, but as they say in India, "not good, not bad...just is."  That's definitely the position the older students are trying to take but it's difficult.

You can also see the struggle Sharath is having as a man who has inherited this legacy.  As men do (people really but especially men), he is trying to put his stamp on the way things are done.  He's also trying to cope with the shear number of students who are coming through and their demands (not to mention the fact that some idolise him).  He's struggling with his own stuff. 

So, there's a lot of "stuff" flying around at the moment.  People going through a number of different processes.  It will settle down.  Sharath will either grow into the role, or someone else (Saraswati?) will take over.  It will be interesting to see how it will unfold.  But it is definitely a time of transition.  Made worse by the fact that there is little else to talk about here...people will do what people do.  Some are just more dramatic than others.  Luckily I'm not around those.

I've started processing my own stuff as well.  I felt very lonely today.  I felt that I had to distance myself from these conversations so I went to breakfast by myself at Alias and met a very handsome man named Darragh. Very intelligent as well. originally from Ireland but grew up in the US. Yoga teacher and personal trainer by profession he came to India to study Ashtanga at the shala. I don’t know what happened but he said he “retired” from Ashtanga and is now studying another form of yoga (not to be found in the west). Not Hatha, I don’t really know what it is. But they do it in groups of 3 only and they do it for 6 hours a day. I loved his energy though. Very clear, very centred. We talked about our mutual non-admiration for George Bush. I ran into him at Anu’s for lunch as well but didn’t get a chance to talk. Now I find myself thinking about him and hoping to run into him tomorrow. Down girl! No sex in India, this is a spiritual journey.

We also talked a lot about the shit coming up for both of us. Nothing specific, just what a dedicated yoga practice brings up. For me a lot of it is about Brad right now. I find myself missing him. Missing his companionship and his love. He’s such a sweetheart, it’s really too bad I can’t have two husbands. Part of me was perfectly happy with him. Unfortunately the part of me that want to grow and experience what I’m experiencing was not. I can’t imagine being here and still being married to him. Our phone conversations would have left me so frustrated I wouldn’t have been able to dig as deep as I’m starting to.

I think I stiff have some stuff to process about our divorce. It’s not to the surface yet, but just bubbling away. I get the sense that I’m still trying to hold it together while I’m with Peter and Jude, although they would be perfectly fine with me not. Old patterns are hard to break.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Market Day, July 10, 2008


Market Day
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61
Busy day today by Indian standards. No practice for me again...still on "ladies holiday." So, I slept late, woke up around 7:30, ate at Alia's (mmmm french toast), came back to rest and then went to the Green Hotel for lunch with Joseph, Jude and Peter, Marva (new house mate) and Karen (friend of Joseph's from New York). I wasn't hungry due to my french toast experience but I had some really good chinese vegetable soup and Paneer Tikka (not so great, really dry).

Afterwards I ventured downtown by myself for the first time. I asked the driver to take me to the "old market" (apparently over 1000 years old). He did, but then convinced me to let him take me to the "spicy market." He said it was just around the corner. After several corners and ending up in a very small fairly deserted alley I'd started to get a bit panicky, what had I gotten myself into? I said sternly, "where are you taking me?" and was planning to jump out of the rickshaw and make a run for the main street. He just turned around and said, "There madam, spicy market."

I turned around and sure enough, there was an entrance to a market right behind me and spicy it was. I was one big spice market...pretty interesting. I didn't buy anything but did take some pics.

Then he insisted on leading me into this house. It was dark and small and again I started to wonder what I'd gotten myself into. A man greeted me and took me past a woman rolling incense. He explained the process and then led me into a really long, narrow room with all sorts of vials. Apparently this business makes essential oils and has been in his family for over 150 years. He showed me all sorts of oils and explained their purposes. I ended up buying a small vial of water lilly to keep the mosquitoes away.

Finally after my hour long detour I managed to convince my driver to take me to the market. I didn't buy anything but got lots of interesting pics.

My ultimate destination was a shop at the end of the market that sells little brass deities. I couldn't find what I was looking for so ended up walking really slowly down a main road that ran parallel to the market. I kept getting accosted by vendors wanting to sell me anything from really bright bracelets to wooden flutes. They get you talking by asking what country you're from. I managed to ignore almost everyone but I succumbed to a guy wanting to exchange NZ dollars for rupees. He said he didn't have any money and pulled out this HUGE bucket of foreign coins. I gave him 70 rupees for $2. He definitely got a good deal and I got to do a good deed.

I did manage to find a headset for my laptop. Have yet to try it to see if it works though. I finally made it back to KR Circle (right in the centre of town) and got a great picture of a cow at a cross walk.) I walked about 1/2 mile up Devaraj Road to Badsha's for my fitting.

The tailor didn't have everything ready for me to try, but what he did was wonderful!!! He's made this beautiful linen jacket with silver embroidery and he top stitched it with silver thread. He also did two pairs of silk pants, a silk top and a little silk vest. Absolutely gorgeous! I'll pick those up on Tuesday and try the rest on then.

Home around 7:30, and bed after watching another DVD.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

View from my roof, July 9, 2008


View from my roof
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

Some days I love India and some days I hate it. This is one of those days I love it. All the sights, the colours, the activity. It’s invigorating. Probably because I slept for 10 hours last night and felt so energetic when I woke up.

I woke up at my usual 5AM and discovered my period had finally come (I’ve thought it would for the last week). That means “ladies holiday” for me. I slept for another 2 1/2 hours!

Breakfast at Nalpak. James wasn’t there. He had a death in the family. Pongol and a dosa. Then off to the Sri Rama Krishna ashram bookstore to get the copy of the Bhagavad Gita that Laksmish wanted us to get for chanting class. I raced to Sean’s for a chiropractic adjustment and then lunch at Anus and then I headed off to the grocery store for supplies.

A word about Sean. How incredibly synchronistic to meet Alia at breakfast that day and mention my back. Without her I may never have realised Sean exists. He’s a wonderful chiropractor...one of the best I’ve had. And so loving and passionate about both yoga and chiropractic. Incredibly handsome as well. Too bad he’s married... That’s what I want, an Ashtanga practicing, handsome chiropractor. One that’s loving, kind, ambitious and wants to create something in the world.

We spent the afternoon on the computer and then I headed off to chanting class. I’m learning the opening Ashtanga prayer with proper sanskrit pronounciation. We’re also chanting the yoga sutras and some other prayers we’ve yet to be told what they are.

After chanting I walked with Kelly, the Canadian actuary over to Anus for a banana, chocolate, date, fig and almond smoothie. Just what I needed for dinner.

I met a girl named Una there (Irish lass) that is leaving on August 1. This may be another synchronistic event. She lives in what looks to be a brand new house across the road from Josephs. She’s only paying 7000 rupees (about $240) a month for a double bedroom and shared bath. They also have a sitting room and small kitchen. She’s taking me there tomorrow. Might be perfect as I’ve almost certainly decided to stay for another 2 months. Why not? I may never have this opportunity again (or take advantage of the opportunity). I can use August and September to work with my coach and develop my business plan. Hmmm, so much to think about.

I’m sleeping much better and really feel like I’m settling in. The decision to stay seems right. Scary, but right. I’m just not sure what twists and turns my life is to take now, but I feel like I’m on the right path.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Shopping Excursion in KR Circle, July 8, 2008

I know I'm starting to acclimate. I was walking out of the Shala this morning and I saw a boy with a monkey on his back and I didn't even look twice. You see so many strange things here in India. I'm starting to take more pics now and will post them on Flick hopefully. Still working out the bugs.

Busy day today. Sharath (Guruji's Grandson) is back from Hong Kong and helped Saraswati with the morning Mysore practices. I was a bit nervous with Sharath there. He has no hesitation in telling people to stop their practice if they can't do a pose. But I did fine and he even helped me get into Supta Kurmasana. I got into Gaba Pindansana by myself (but couldn't roll).

I had no energy though. Don't think I'm eating enough for dinners. I rectified that by having fruit, then hummus on veggies, then some of Jude's Pongol (much better than Nalpak's) and some black sesame crackers she got from Thailand. Good stuff.

Anyway, I rested after practice and then went out to Sandhya's house with Jude, Peter, Joseph, the Scott's and a few other older students. The food was good, mostly veggies and rice.

Afterwards we went to KR Circle, dead smack in the centre of town. Peter wanted to make a dentist appointment (really good, really cheap dental work) they wanted to go to another Badshaw's for more silks to make cushions for their home. We had a great time as usual looking at the beautiful silks. Then Jude and I went onto a store called Rashinka's. We weren't impressed. They're quality was not nearly as good as Badshaw's and it was dumpy.

The walk there and back was interesting and I got some great pics.

Afterward we worked on our respective computers and talked. It's almost time for bed now and I still have to learn the closing Ashtanga prayer for my 5:30 chanting class tomorrow.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

July 6, 2008














Pics: Yoga Shala and Pattabhi Jois' family's house, Coconut Stand (great electrolytes), Rickshaw Drivers, Peter and Jude at Nalpak.

Lazy day today. Did the led practice at 6:15 and the energy was really heavy. It felt like we were swimming through jelly. Jude and Peter had breakfast plans with an Indian family they know so I was on my own. Tried Santosha's for the first time. Really good. I had been craving eggs and had an omelette and a piece of toast with hummus, tomato and cucumber on it. Felt nice and healthy. Met some new people; an anti trust lawyer from Sweden named Eva, an actuary from the states but living in Ireland named Kelly and another American who lives here now named John. I think he just does yoga.

Came back and took a nap and went to Nalpak for lunch with Peter and Jude. Walked back and took a few pics (my first in India). Tonight I plan to read until the inevitable power cut and then maybe watch a movie.


Saturday, July 5, 2008

More Shopping, July 5, 2008

Goodness, I’m exhausted! Rest day today (Saturday). Met James for Pongol at Nalpak with Peter and Jude and then Jude and I went back to the Southern Star, she to pay her bill, me to buy more shawls (mostly for pressies, but couldn’t resist another for myself.) I also bought two table runners and a gorgeous silk rug.

After that we went to Fab India where they have ready to wear and I bought a couple of pairs of pants, a skirt and three tops.

Picked Peter up for lunch and they took me to Anu’s Bamboo Hut, right around the corner. GREAT food. Lots of fresh veggies and some really nice curry type stuff. Good roti’s too and I finished it off with both a mango smoothie AND banana custard. Mmmmmm.

I met this delightful couple named Alia and Bruno and their two sons, Darjeeling and (crap I can’t remember, it’s the Hawaiian word for ocean). Their French, met in the US and came here for her to study yoga and to raise their kids for awhile. Better place than New York. They’ve bought a breakfast cafe. He’s a surfer so they’re actually thinking about moving to Aussie or NZ. The best news is that they know of a chiropractor and gave me his number. I will call for an appointment.

After lunch I had a little adventure. I went back to Nalpak or rather the grocer next door to pick up some supplies for the house. Not only food but mossie repellent (they are eating me alive and carry Dengue fever so I’m a bit concerned about being bitten). I also got a torch (flashlight) so that I can see the money if I take a rickshaw back after dark (I couldn’t last time, God knows how much I ended giving him) and a spray bottle to contain filtered water so I can wash my face more easily. I decided to walk back (it’s only about 1/2 mile) but in the heat and dust very exhausting! On the way I saw a pretty skirt for about $7 and bought that and two tops for about $1 each. Super cheap!

Came home, washed the fruit and now I’m going to take a nap!

Friday, July 4, 2008

First Led Practice, July 4, 2008

Happy 4th of July! No one much cares here though. Up at 4AM (3:30 for me again) for meditation and pre-practice and then down to the shala by 5:45. Fridays and Sundays are led classes where they take you in two massive groups (latecomers had to be on stage or in the foyer). Saraswati counts you through the entire practice and everyone flows together. It was slower than I’d expected, but the counts weren’t at my own rhythm so it was a bit stressful. Plus the fact that I was still getting over food poisoning. I had a lot more energy than I’d expected. Unfortunately I seem to have tweeked my lower back.  At first I thought it was my sacrum, but I've since determined it's probably good ole L5, that I always have problems with.  This is on the other side than the one that normally bothers me.  I'll have to watch that.

Breakfast was at the Southern Star. This wonderful (felt like civilisation again) hotel that appears out of no where. Buffet was fairly typical western, with a few Indian dishes thrown in. We met John and Lucy Scott. John is a senior teacher most known for teaching Sting and Trudi Styler as well as Madonna. He’s a Kiwi that lived in London for years. He and Lucy have come back to NZ and have a shala in Nelson. I’ve taken two of John’s workshops before.

After Breakfast Jude introduced me to yet another shop where I bought two beautiful pashminas and some cushions for my bed.

Lazy afternoon talking to Isla and Bill and Tina, two friends of Jude and Peters. Bill is from NZ and met Tina here awhile back. She’s from Sweden and they both live there now.

I went down to the shala to register for a chanting class and a yoga sutra class and Jude and Peter went out for a light supper.

We were going to watch a movie tonight but the power went out (not unusual) and sat around talking. Came back on around 8:30 but we couldn’t get the DVD to work so I’m off to bed.

I’m feeling more comfortable getting around by myself and starting to recognise some landmarks. I can’t be outside of Joseph’s house for too long as it’s still a bit overwhelming. The traffic, the noise, the filth, people everywhere.

That and, since I’m not doing anything really I really feel the affects of the practice working on my nervous system. My nerves felt extremely jangly all afternoon. Jude’s advice: let the practice work and just go with it. New experience for me.

Happy Birthday, July 3, 2008

Happy birthday to me! Woke up feeling pretty good. Small breakfast brought back by Jude and Peter. It was a moon day (new) anyway so no practice. I spent the day talking to Jude. Had a wonderful conversation about all sorts of things. She’s so knowledgeable about all things India having been coming here for so long. Especially cooking. She’s a great cook and I’ve been pumping her for as much knowledge on Indian cuisine as I can.

Towards the end of the day we sat out on our front patio. Lovely space. Early to bed. Early practice tomorrow.

2nd Practice, 1st Trip to Doctor, July 2, 2008

July 2, 2008

Same routine as the day before; up at 5AM (well 2:30 in my case...again couldn’t sleep), morning meditation and pre-practice warm up and at the shala before 7.

This morning’s practice rocked!!!! I was just starting my seated poses and Saraswati came up to me pointed her finger and said, “You need help you ask!”. “Thank you I will,” I replied and ask I did. She got me into Supta Kurmasana, (which I can do if the teacher brings my arms together behind my back so that I can grasp my fingers). What I didn’t plan on was her putting (forcing really) my arms between my legs in Gaba Pindansana. I’d never done that before (fat thighs) and it was bloody hard. I can get one and not the other. Even with spraying myself down with the water bottle I could only get it part of the way. She was adjusting someone else and kept saying, “keep pushing, keep pushing,” but I was getting exhausted!!! Finally she came over and yanked me through and then spun me around a few times and told me to go up into Kukkutasana, which I did for a breath or two and then collapsed laughing. The good news is so was she!

If you can believe it I sweat even more than I had the day before and just felt great.

We went for Pongol (rice and dal / lentils) and dosas (fermented rice and another type of Dal that apparently has more protein than meat) made into a pancake. I had no appetite at all! That should have tipped me off that something was wrong, but being in India and doing this intense practice I just chalked it up to that. After breakfast I braved my first rickshaw ride by myself and met Jude and Peter at Jame’s house.

James is a friend of theirs that they met one time when they came and lived across the street from him. He’s British, from an aristocratic family, and came to India when he was 21, over 30 years ago to study meditation. He never left. I met him last December when he was in NZ. He sold some land in the UK and had to stay away from India for a year to avoid paying taxes on the very considerable gain. He spent 4 months in Canada, 4 months somewhere I can’t remember and 4 months in NZ. He’s a fascinating man and knows more about American politics (and loves talking about same) than I do. Anyway, we stopped by so I could say hello and he started warning me to watch what I ate and drank and started describing the symptoms I could get if I ate and drank the wrong thing. Little did he know that I had just started to feel those symptoms! Nausea, diarrhea, fever...they all hit the hour I spent talking to he and his wife Sandhya. I came home and went straight to bed. Well actually the couch. I slept for most of the day.

Joseph came over and suggested I see Dr. Kumar, the local Ayurvedic doctor. He made the appointment and called the rickshaw driver. Peter accompanied me. Dr. Kumar is wonderful. Lovely man with clear eyes and great energy. He took my pulse, looked at my tongue, asked me questions about my symptoms, gave me two kinds of pills and sent me off with a prescription for another kind of pills and some sickeningly sweet kind of liquid. He said I should start feeling better the next day.

I spent the night on two sets of cushions on the living room floor in case I needed to get help fast. It was actually a really good night’s sleep and I woke up the next day feeling much, much better.

First Practice, July 1, 2008

July 1, 2008

Woke up at 3AM. Wide awake and too excited and nervous to sleep. My alarm rang at 5 and I had a quick shower. I have the only tub in the house and one of the few tubs in Mysore, apparently. Not that I’d want to actually bathe in said tub, it’s pretty dingy. The downside is no shower. :( Well, that’s not quite true. There is a shower hose, just no curtain and you have to hold the hose yourself. But it gets better. Every other day or so you have to fill the tank above the house with water by flipping a switch. You know it’s filled when it starts to overflow. If you catch it on time it only starts to run on the roof. If it goes on for much longer it starts to flood the driveway. Efficient system. :)

To heat the water for the house you have to flip the switch in my bathroom. I’m lucky because I’m close to the tank I get hot water right away and I can go 2 days without turning it on. The girls downstairs use a big, common shower and it takes forever for them to get hot water. Peter and Jude never get hot water and use a bucket system where they fill a big clay pot with water and heat it with a big metal prong. Once hut they sit on the toilet and throw buckets of water on themselves. Jude swears by it, but I prefer my shower, no matter how rudimentary it is.

After my shower I joined Jude for a pre-practice meditation and warm-up. Jude regularly does an hour of warm up poses before her 2 hours of yoga. Great idea when you have the time; which I do now so I joined her. Made all the difference in opening my hips. Wonderful!!!

A few minutes before 7 we wandered down to the shala and, to our surprise were able to walk right in. They have a system in Mysore where they start a class at 5AM and unless you’re given that as a start time you show up at your designated time, wait for someone to leave and the yell, “one more” and quickly point to a place. Sometimes the mats are so close that you’re not sure where they are pointing to. Mat real estate is pretty dear in Mysore. But, not a problem. There were places available when we started.

I was so overwhelmed by actually being in Mysore that all I could think of during the sun salutations was, “Oh my God, I’m actually in Mysore!” I sailed through those, probably too fast and couldn’t focus. Then I settled down and had an amazing practice!

Guruji is getting too old to teach regularly and Sharath, his grandson and successor is at a yoga conference in Hong Kong until the 8th so Saraswati is handling the whole class until then. She, herself is in her late 60’s (Guruji turns 93 in 2 weeks) and it’s a big job, but she has an eagle eye and doesn’t miss a thing!

I sweat like I’ve not sweat since practicing in Austin during August and was able to come out of Bhuja Pindasana for the 2nd time without putting my feet back on the floor (the first time was in Thailand). I also went into Setu Bandhanasana for the first time ever as I felt that my neck was strong enough to support it. Peter has since advised me against doing this so I’m now doing an assisted version keeping my hands on the floor next to my neck.  I also did Mathsyasana and Uttana Padasana for the first time ever.  First time my core muscles were strong enough to handle it.

Peter and I did breakfast again at Tina’s and I had a repeat of what I had the day before. Lunch was at the other Tina’s (one only does breakfast and the other lunch / dinner). Pretty unsatisfying.

We ended up going into the city for Jude to get another cell phone as hers seemed to be broken. She wanted to show me her favourite silk place. Boy was that a mistake. I spent way too much money on custom made pants (2 pairs), a skirt, a linen jacket, two silk jackets and three cotton shirts. All mix and match though and cheap, cheap cheap compared to other prices. We had a great time. They served us Chai (almost as good as Jude’s) and showed us every piece of silk in the place. It was a bit overwhelming, but oh so beautiful!!!

Our rickshaw ride back...let me digress as I don’t think I’ve property explained rickshaws. Rickshaws are open air, three wheeled vehicles where the driver sits on one seat in the middle in front and the passengers (three easily, four at a stretch, but I’ve seen many more than that) sit in the back and hang on for dear life. No seat belts, flat bench seat. You have to convince them to turn the meter on for westerners. They will say, “No Madam, my prices are very reasonable.” Don’t you believe them. Be insistent on meter usage or once you get to know distances negotiate a price ahead of time.

Anyway, after 6:30 the place comes alive. Everyone shuts down in the afternoon to sleep and avoid the heat but shops and Doctors (more on that later) open back up between 4 and 6 and go quite late. Because of all the activity the pollution get really, really bad. Jude and I had to cover our faces with scarves. CRAZY.

1st Day in Mysore, June 30, 2008

June 30, 2008

I woke up at 3:30 this morning. I thought it was 5:00. My travel alarm was set for Thai time and my alarm still set to wake me up for departure from Phuket. Hang on you say...why did it wake me up at 3:30 if the alarm was set for 5:00? Yes indeed, Mysore is in one of those crazy time zones that changes by the 1/2 hour and not a full hour so we’re an hour and a half behind Thailand.

Anyway, I didn’t cotton onto that fact until I lay awake for almost 2 hours waiting for the sun to rise and the household to wake up. It was lovely though, listening to the rain in the coconut palms and the blissful quiet.

No one actually got up until 7AM local time so I laid there for awhile too excited to sleep. My house mates include Peter and Jude, my friends and yoga teachers from NZ and two single women, Isla from the UK and Rachel from Houston (originally Connecticut). Both much younger than the three of us but lovely. Rachel had my room for the previous two months but I’d booked before she did so I booted her out of it.

My room is indeed on the roof. It’s not as nice in my opinion as Peter and Jude’s but it’s more private. I have coconut palms growing outside and I can see the whole neighborhood as ours is the tallest house in the neighborhood.

Rachel, Peter, Jude and I went to breakfast after Rachel’s practice. Tina’s kitchen. We had a wonderful fruit salad of the best mangos I’ve ever had along with papaya, banana and figs, fenugreek roti and a veggie omelette.

After breakfast Jude and I went shopping for fruit and veggies for our dinner (heavy breakfasts and lunches with barely any dinner is the routine here). I then did some laundry. The have two young girls here that come in to clean every day and they do laundry as well, but apparently in India they still beat the clothes against rocks so anything you don’t want pummeled to death you do yourself.

For lunch we went to Nalpak which is traditional Indian and apparently off the beaten track for most western yoga students. I can’t even tell you what we ate but it was delicious! Rice and some sort of unleavened break with a number of different sauces and soups.

At 4:30, excited as I could be, I walked down to the yoga shala (school) with Jude and paid my money to practice for the month. It was actually pretty uneventful. Guruji was in his office but was with someone. His daughter, Saraswati, was there and asked me if I’d sent in my form. I held my breath and said yes, in February. This is what I was afraid of; I’ve come all this way and they won’t have received my form. You send it via snail mail and they never acknowledge whether or not they’ve received it. For the last few days I’ve been coming up with different scenarios of what I could do now that I’m in India if I can’t practice. Peter and Jude told me it would be fine, that they’d vouch for me.

Lo and behold, not to worry, they didn’t even check. They just took my money (a big wad of rupees) filled out an ID card and off we went.

Fruit salad for dinner.