Eat, Pray, Love...the Kim Smith Version

My New Blog

2009-07-17T20:26:00.000-07:00

I haven't updated this blog since leaving India. But now I have a new one! It's called, "A Yogic Life in the Modern World" and it's about my day to day adventures as I discover life in Australia, build a new business, date and, as ever, practice Ashtanga. So join me at www.kimseelingsmith.blogspot.com.

Bangalore Airport - October 30, 2008

2008-10-31T03:12:00.000-07:00

I’ve left Mysore. It hasn’t really hit me yet, or maybe I’m just so tired. I haven’t gotten a lot of sleep over the last two nights with the fireworks and over-stimulation from getting ready to leave.

Nice last day. Very long, leisurely breakfast at Alias. Several people turned up to see me off.

Then a day of pampering (manicure, pedicure, etc) before a few last minute errands, lunch at Tinas (palak rotis...mmmmm) and a 4:30 car to the airport. It took 4 hours to drive here and I absorbed the last of India. The chaotic traffic, the families of 4 on scooters. That distinctive smell of burning something and the ever present pollution (worse as we neared Bangalore.) Then the airport. I feel like I’ve entered another world. It’s brand new and very, very modern. It’s clean with great western toilets with toilet paper and no bin...do you actually flush the paper? What a concept! I’m not the only westerner here. Not by a long shot.

It’s funny, in Mysore the only westerners tend to be yoga students. If you go into the city you may not see a westerner during the entire trip, depending on where you are. I’ve gotten used to standing out in a crowd. I’ve also, apparently gotten used to seeing nothing but beautiful people in terms of westerners (mostly young with great yoga bodies). Here westerners come in all sizes and it’s kind of freaking me out. I feel very disoriented actually. My mind is starting to go crazy as well with a lot of fear as I get ready to enter the real world and to pick up my life. My very disjointed life at the moment with a new country, new job, no permanent place to live at the moment and new friends to make. It will all be fine, but in my current state I am focusing on the negative. I’m very grateful that I have the tools though to calm the chitta vrittis and to realise that that’s just where I am right now...this too shall pass.

My practice today was absolutely awesome. The best ever and that’s no exaggeration. I was not at all stiff. I really flowed. I worked so deeply into my hips during the sitting poses. I bound fully and deeply in Supta Kurmasana and crossed my ankles over my head and then I got back up and balanced on my hands without having to come out of it. I touched the floor with my palms facing out during Prasarita C. But the best news is that I dropped back by myself. Only once and with a lot of coaching from Sharath but I did it! I was waiting to be dropped back. Sharath was dropping Jen back who was right next to me so I didn’t even think I’d have the chance to practice, but he was taking awhile so I started to go back. He started saying, “more back bending, bend your neck” over and over again. Then he went to the person in back of me. I had come up and decided to go back down. He said the same and then I got to the critical point he said, “now straight arms”. I did and bump! I hit the floor...with my hands and not my head. In the end it seemed effortless. It was amazing. Then he tried to get me to come up. That wasn’t happening. Neither was the second drop back. I was shaking and crying in relief and disbelief and completely oblivious when Saraswati actually did drop me back. She smiled though and said, “good day!”. I said, “It’s a Mysore miracle.” I cried through the finishing poses. Bawled actually. It was so bitter sweet. I love this practice!

This practice changes you. It just does. You can’t practice this regularly and this intensely and continue to define yourself in the same way. I’ve realised very intensely over the last few months how I’ve defined myself as a weak person. Not physically, mentally or emotionally strong. But you can’t do this practice if you’re weak. That adjective just doesn’t describe me anymore. In any way.

If you’re lucky, not only with the practice in Mysore redefine you, so will the people. I’ve been lucky. I’ve made several soul connections. Some I know I’ll stay in touch with the rest of my life. Some were only meant to be fleeting connections. Brief in duration but not less important. I’ve changed lives and mine has certainly been changed.

I know over the coming days, weeks and months I’ll start to define and redefine this experience. I know I’ll parse it over in my mind and categorise it. I know I’ll lose some of what I’m feeling now and that I’ll carry much of it with me forever.

I know for sure that Mysore has changed me. The place, the practice and the people and for that I’ll be eternally grateful.

Last night in India - Shine on, October 29, 2008

2008-10-31T02:51:00.000-07:00

It’s my last night in India and she’s sending me out with a bang (several million in fact). It’s Diwali (Deepavali as it’s known in the south). The festival of lights. It should be more aptly named the festival of sounds. I’ve never been in a war zone, but can’t imagine it’s any more noisy than Diwali in India. Three days of progressively frequent (and now constant and I do mean constant) fireworks. Not only fireworks as in the traditional 4th of July sense but also a lot of very loud cherry bomb type explosions. This goes on day and night (especially night) for 3 days straight. Every family participates so it’s all around you! It’s incredible and can be incredibly frustrating if you let it. But I haven’t let it be (a slight miracle for me who’s super sensitive to sound). I’m taking the advice of a very good friend and living “as if”. Living as if everything is perfect and just as it should be. It’s very freeing and potentially one of the best take aways of the many take aways from my 4 months here. Definitely something to play with.

The same friend gave me some great advice today about love. Loving others full out and loving them completely. So completely that that might mean accepting that you’ll never be together in a traditional romantic sense: it’s not your time, it’s not your destiny. So completely that you see them as they really are and not through rose colored glasses. Knowing that they and it are exactly the way they / it should be and not shutting yourself down for any reason. Playing full out all of the time...in love. Wow! Scary! But why not? Why not take chances, why not just love? If I can do this, if I can allow myself to love this freely and not get hurt or upset if / when it’s not returned can you imagine the quality of my life? Unbelievable.

The final piece of advice that my friend gave me (other than to grow my hair...but that’s another story) is that I have an inner strength that I’m just now becoming aware of. He called it my light today. He told me to continue to let my light shine and shine brightly as I go back to the real world. He actually said this to me the first time we spent any significant time together during that magical night of elephants, fairy lights and gold medal winners at the palace. It was nice to hear him say it again after many hours together and many very intense conversations.

Friends like he are rare and precious. We say we’ll keep in touch and I really hope we do. I think I’ve added to his life as he’s added to mine. But even if we don’t I hope he knows how he’s touched my heart and my soul. One of those magical Mysore moments.

Other than dodging Diwali fireworks my last week has been pretty amazing. My practice is in the best shape it’s ever been in. I said goodbye to Sharath, Saraswati and Guruji today and Sharath made it clear that the next time he sees me I need to be dropping back by myself. Tomorrow maybe?

I’ve spent my last week doing some last minute shopping (this is the dress I had made from the saree),
dental appointments (I got a cleaning for $6 US) and as much rest as I can possibly get in the form of a couple of long lazy pool days and a wonderful day at the river today with Irish Andrew.

He drove my bike so I got to gaze out at the rice paddies and cane fields of old India one last time from the back of my scooter.

Last night was my final Kirtan with Mike for this trip. We were invited to a Kali puja by Auntie Ji (the home bound music teacher at who’s house we’ve been doing Friday night Kirtans) and her friend. Apparently Bengali’s don’t recognise Diwali (although in the typical Hindu tradition of borrowing from other religions and sects they are more than happy to celebrate). Instead they worship Kali during this time. The puja was supposed to start at 8 but of course did not actually start until 10:30 - PM. It was supposed to go all night. We set up and did a Kirtan though while they were decorating Kali and getting ready. Beautiful and touching. Especially when Mike did the Ma chant he wrote himself. Of course this was all preceded by the usual rickshaw and scooter caravan that typifies a group event in Gokulam. Thanks so much Mike for holding the Bhakti space in Gokulam and letting me re-experience something I love so much. See full photoset here (lots of great colours).

Tonight was Cat’s last night and she, Roddy, Kyle (Keelay!) and Richard put on a concert for half of Gokulam on Arne’s roof. Most of the songs one or all had written themselves and they were beautiful. They had to compete with the Diwali fireworks but at the end of the concert we had our own to display.

So, the end is here. I’m really leaving. I’m ready to leave. I’m ready to start my new life. I’m ready to get back to the real world. I so hope that I can take these experiences with me and incorporate them into my real life. I know that some will fall away as I fall into old patterns. But like muscles after not practicing for awhile, emotions have memories and I can access the lessons and my new found strength again, even if I do lose it momentarily. It’s all a journey.

I do know that I’ve made even more great friends whom I will keep close to my heart. I truly have friends all over the world and am so blessed to be supported by two great communities; Tony Robbins people and Ashtangis. A girl couldn’t ask for more.

So I go back into the world with my new motto...Shine On.

Why yes, Madam, you have taken 1 and 1/2 inches from your bust, October 25, 2008

2008-10-24T19:19:00.000-07:00

I seem to be melting away in India but Global Warming is unwelcome in certain parts of my body.

Yesterday while raising into updog I had a flash...I could buy a saree and have it made into a dress for the Melbourne Cup party I’ll be attending less than 24 hours after arriving in Sydney. No slow transition for me! I called my tailor, Nissar, and asked him if it was possible to convert a saree into a cocktail dress in less than a week. “Yes, Madam, possible.” So after breakfast at Alia’s off I went to Badsha’s to saree shop. I took Jocelyn with me for another opinion and we had a great time as, true to Badsha’s tradition they pulled every saree off their shelves that remotely fit the description of what I was looking for. I narrowed it down to 6 by the time Nissar arrived.

He showed me pictures of other dresses he’d done and I narrowed that down to a choice of two. Coincidentally both were made by Cathryn, the previous inhabitant of the apartment I currently live in. He and I discussed how the various sarees could work with these two patterns and I decided on the one that was my first choice anyway. It’s electric blue with a bit of a pattern through the material. The bit that is meant to go over the shoulder, which is always the most decorative part of the saree, is blue and green with gold sparkly bits running through it. It will be transformed into a strapless A line, fairly tight fitting and flared at the bottom. I think it will be gorgeous! Now I just need gold shoes (he’s making a matching bag).

After the myriad of measurements I tentatively asked him if my measurements had changed between now and July, when he made my other clothes. After consulting his book he said, “Why yes, Madam, you have taken 1 and 1/2 inches from your bust.” NOT the news I was looking for. The good news is though that, since I’ve been in India, I’ve also lost 1 1/2 inches from hips and tummy and even 1/2 from those pesky thighs! This, despite the fact that I regularly eat 3 pieces of Bruno’s french toast or two big pieces of Santosha’s home made bread every morning. We won’t even talk about the frequent gelato trips or the once weekly hot fudge sundae from the Corner House that I enjoy.

My time is definitely coming to a close though. I have shipped presents to friends and started sorting through my own stuff (what to take with me, what to ship (a lot!) and what to leave here in a trunk for my next trip back.

Last night was my last Kirtan at Auntie Ji’s (an aging music teacher that is house bound but really enjoys the yoga students coming to her). I cried. Partially because it hit me that I’m really leaving India after 4 months and partly because Mike was singing a chant to the Mother that he’d written and it’s just beautiful!

We were lucky enough to have Richard on the violin (he’s excellent and the sweet, sad sound adds so much to Kirtan) and of course, Ganesh on the Tablas.

The rest of the past week has really been spent resting (not much pool time though as we seem to be having a second monsoon season) shopping for last minute items and saying goodbye to others who have left. Ken and Maev to Goa, Christian to New Zealand and others I was less close to for other parts of the world. Goodbyes are not as sad though here, there’s a definite feeling that we’ll see each other again. The sad goodbye will be when my plane takes off from Bangalore and I leave India, the country that, for all its foibles, has a firm grip on my heart.

Deeksha, Part II, October 15, 2008

2008-10-15T05:39:00.001-07:00

I had my second deeksha today. Amazing!!! I don’t remember if I explained what it was in my first post. This is a blessing or energy exchange given by initiates into the Oneness Movement. Interestingly enough this is what Tony Robbins’ wife Sage did to cure her lifelong affliction with motion sickness. Tony brought the Oneness Movement to Fiji and they rebranded Oneness University. It’s all the rage amongst my TR friends but I had not been called to do it. The deeksha or blessing is an energy exchange designed to break up neurological patterns. No wonder Tony loves it! That’s what he’s been doing for 30 years.

The first deeksha I had was nice, but no real effects. But this one. Oh my God! First of all the meditation was very powerful. It was designed to open up my chakras. My chakras have been pretty open with the other stuff I’ve been doing so it didn’t take much to really feel plugged in. Then Marina and Sergio put their hands on my head and I feel a flush of energy. It was amazing! Especially with Sergio. He seemed to be really in the flow. The Mysore dwellers will recognise Marina and Sergio from the Southern Star pool where they are frequently seen with their two kids...he’s Spanish and she’s Swiss / Italian.

The experience re-affirmed something I’d been struggling with a wee bit. I’ve always known that my spiritual connection was directly with the source. I’ve had a hard time going through an intermediary, or worshiping someone like Sai Baba or any other living incarnate of the devine. I have always wanted to “plug in” directly. And I’ve always thought about it as “plugging in”. The realisation I had today was that my spiritual path is all about energy. I think that’s why I love yoga so much. It plugs me into my body, quiets the mind and clears the way for a direct connection with the source. But now I’m called to do more in this arena. Just what that is I’m not sure....but isn’t it funny how everything is aligning? I fall in love with deeksha in India practicing yoga, but it’s already around my other network...the Tony Robbins people. I just feel like all of the pieces of my life are coming together and the picture on the puzzle is starting to become clearer.

Thinking about re-entry, October 14, 2008

2008-10-14T04:53:00.000-07:00

I’ve started to think about re-entry. I’m almost 2 weeks away from the inevitable; leaving Mysore and starting my new life in Sydney. Today was the first day I got really excited. I arranged for my boxes to be delivered to my serviced apartment and started thinking about real clothes! Tops with spaghetti straps that I can wear with abandon on the street and not get leered at. Shorts. More than one pair of shoes!!!! (I’ve worn the same pair every day for 4 months). I don’t remember what I packed in those six “I need them immediately” boxes but I know it will feel like Christmas when I open them.

I land at 1:00 Monday afternoon and less than 24 hours later I’m at a Melbourne Cup party with an entire office full of people I’ve yet to meet. Needless to say I’ve made a hair appointment for Tuesday morning (no small feat on Cup day). When the guy at the salon asked what I needed I said, “well, I’ve been in India for 4 months...” he cut me off and said, “Oh so you need a lot then!” I guess I do. Luckily my blonde highlights have done a fairly effective job hiding the grey roots.

What started to get me excited about re-entering my life was lunch yesterday. I met with a really interesting couple. She’s American and he’s Swedish. They do strategic consulting for companies and top executives with a spiritual component. It’s exactly what I want to eventually do. I decided that it’s time to start the next phase of my life that will lead me there. I hope to keep in touch with these two.

But even with my excitement I worry about how I’m going to integrate everything I’ve learned and absorbed here into the real world. Can I keep up a 6 day / week practice? What about my pranayama and meditation? How do I balance it all? How do I keep this sense of calm and peace that I now walk around with and not get pulled into the daily stresses of western life? I guess the answer to that lies in the continuation of the practices above.

Four months here has taught me so much. One of the biggest things that it’s taught me is that I’m not ready to be an ascetic. I need to live in the world and to live in it with passion!!!!

So, in a few weeks I will start a new job in a new city / country, start making new friends and finally, a year after I left my husband and had another very significant relationship blow up, I will start to date again! God, what will that be like? I’m very excited about that prospect!!! I’ve taken a couple of chances in that arena recently and it’s given me resolve to do things differently, thanks to a very cute, younger man with great hair! Hmmm, maybe that’s material for another blog. A woman in her mid / late 40’s who feels like she’s in her early 30’s starting to date again after 10 years. Watch this space.

In a few weeks I’ll also be able to use a washing machine, drink tap water (not that I do but it's nice to have the option) and look random people in the eye and smile. I’ll get to dress like I please and ask a simple question and be able to get a straight answer.

There a few things I won’t be doing as though. I won’t be choking from pollution when I drive around town. I won’t be dodging cows, cow shit and men peeing in the streets. I won’t have to glue my envelopes shut with rubber cement at the post office and I won’t have to stand in a queue to get a rubber stamp which allows me to stand in another queue.

Even though I’ll miss a lot; the intensity of the practice, the amazing people I’ve met, the looonnnggg breakfasts (especially over Bruno’s french toast), the lazy days, the best body work (massage, chiropractic and rolfing) I’ve ever had (makes SUCH a difference being worked on by Ashtangi’s), the intense spirituality and some of the best conversations of my life, I think I’m ready.

But, that’s in a couple of weeks. Until then there’s Ken’s anatomy class, more body work, more shopping, an astrology reading, a past life regression, a henna party, more trips to the river, more long breakfasts and amazing conversations, more...well more India. Again, watch this space.

The practice, October 8, 2008

2008-10-08T06:17:00.000-07:00

One of the things that Sharath is fond of saying is that your best practices can happen on days when you don't feel like being on the mat. Days when you don't sleep the night before or that you feel like crap.

That was certainly the case yesterday. I got 2 hours of sleep the night before, slept through my alarm when I finally did fall asleep, woke up 45 minutes late and ran to the shala. I've been having a rough two weeks, feeling like I was practicing with someone else's body. Someone else's very stiff body with painful knees. But yesterday I was back to my old self. I flowed, I was focused and I went deep.

I reached the floor in Prasrita Padottanasana C. I almost dropped back by myself until I saw Saraswati coming towards me (upside down) and stood up again. She said, "you go back" but the moment had passed. And I got my headstand back. Life is good!

Today, although I slept like a champ last night was even better. Sharath dropped me back and I came within 4 inches of touching my heals...in back bend.

Tomorrow's another day! :)

Slack Line, October 6, 2008

2008-10-06T06:28:00.000-07:00

As if our Ashtanga practice wasn't physically challenging enough, this is one of the ways we choose to spend our time off the mat. See "Arne, The Lemur's" video here.

Narasimhan, Diksha, Rolfing, Death Pujas and a Magical Night at the Palace, October 5, 2008

2008-10-04T23:23:00.000-07:00

It’s been so long since I’ve updated my blog. I made myself take a week off from doing anything constructive. Narasimhan (more on he and his sister Jayashree later) has stopped teaching for a few months and I consciously decided to stop going to chanting with Jayashree who is only doing one more week before she quits to get ready for their trip. I start an introductory Ayurveda class with Dr. Kumar next week so this week was perfect for a “vacation”.

I wanted to see what doing nothing for a week felt like. No studying, no reading anything heavy or deep, no blogging, no planning for my future. Just being, no doing. Wow! What an experience.

I’ve had a lot of time at the pool and more time in my head. I’ve had a lot of great conversations with people I care about and have made some amazing friends. I’ve been rolfed, I’ve been diksha’d and I’ve watched a man bury a loved one. I’ve touched and been touched by some amazing souls.

I also feel like I’m almost ready to leave the cocoon that is Gokulam. My cocoon. It’s protected me and given me opportunity to transform from my old form to what I’m about to become. A friend told me last night that he saw an inner strength in me that I’m just now realising and that inner strength is the secret to my beauty, my sexuality and the core of the woman I’m about to become. I thought that was an incredible thing to see and more of one to say.

I’m surprisingly lost for words more than that so I’ll let my pictures from the week speak for themselves.

I took Narasimhan’s last philosophy course a week ago Thursday. One of the greatest things about this experience (Mysore) is my philosophy teacher Narasimhan. He's a real yogi. He shared with me that his family really kind of pushed him into it when he came of age because they thought he had the disposition for it and it's believed that one true yogi in the family will attain liberation for past and future generations of the family for 5,000 years!!!He's had some amazing experiences. He lived with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi for 12 years (after the Beatles and before he got famous). He learned Transcendental Meditation and now teaches that (which is what I'm doing). He's also spent time with some of the holy men in the Himalayas and has some freaking weird stories about that!

I've learned so much from him and gained so much from him. Sharath is my teacher for Asana practice, but Narasimhan is my guru.

He's one of the gentlest souls I've ever met and a true delight. He also knows a tonne! Not only about Eastern philosophy but about Western as well.

His sister Jayashree is a sandskrit scholar and a wonderful woman herself. She's gifted with an amazing voice and I truly enjoyed chanting the Gita with her.

And Jayashree recently had a grandson. Her daughter and grandson are living with the extended family (16 under one roof) for 3 months. They have this incredible cradle set up in the main room of the house.

Sunday night (before moon day) gave us the best Kirtan of my stay here. The crowd was smallish but such powerful voices!!!!

On Wednesday I went to my first Diksha or blessing from the Oneness movement. One of the recent arrivals to town is Ken, a rolfer. He’s been here quite a bit and I’ve really enjoyed getting to know him. He asked me along with several others to go with him to the diksha. What’s wierd about this is that it’s the same as Tony’s new “Oneness University”. Sergio and Marina did it years ago and were trained to give the blessing. I’ve never trusted the blessing givers in the TR environment but I totally trusted them and it felt right to have my first blessing in it’s natural environment of Mother India. I will do Oneness now. I looked into doing it here before I leave but there are no English courses before my visa expires.

Wednesday was also the day that we went to Sri Rangapatnam. See entire photoset. It’s an area by the river I’ve been going to with a number of different temples where they do pujas to their dead. It’s an amazing thing to watch. There is a Brahmin priest and usually another loved one that holds the person “burying” their dead while they totally submerge in the water. Then they do the puja and throw the clay pot containing their loved one’s ashes and bones over the back of their heads. It’s totally moving and a bit surreal since this is the same river that people bathe and wash their clothes in. It was quite a procession. We ended up with 12 (it started with Matt, Christian and myself).

I was rolfed by Ken on Thursday. Someone described rolfing as restringing a guitar. It’s deep tissue work that concentrates on the soft tissue of the body. I’ve had a couple of weeks of very difficult practices where I’ve been stiff and sore. I’ve actually felt like I’ve been practicing with someone else’s body. My practice on Friday after the rolfing session was almost back to normal. It felt great!

Last night I had one of those magical nights that come along oh so rarely. I went with a friend to the Mysore Palace to see the lights and some of the entertainment. It's Dasara, a 10 day festival celebrating the triumph of good over evil. It was a beautiful night. The air was warm, the palace exquisite, the entertainment stunning and the conversation grand. We talked on such a heartfelt (really soul felt) level. It was real, honest and breathtakingly refreshing. He saw parts of me that I’ve only really started to see myself and opened up the door to restored confidence that I so badly need.

So, my week over I begin preparing for the last few weeks of my stay. I have 4 weeks left but it still doesn’t seem enough. I get weepy when I think about it, but I want to leave wanting more. I’ll be back that much is certain. There’s a lot I want to do in these last 4 weeks, but more importantly there’s more I want to be.

Take me to the River, September 26, 2008

2008-09-26T05:07:00.000-07:00

What an amazing day! First day I've had to relax in a long time with no agendas and no place to be. And the weather has just been amazing! Monsoon season seems to have ended with the days sunny and bright and in the high 80's F Low 30's C. Perfect, perfect weather.

After a leisurely breakfast at Alias I did some work on the computer, had a quick lunch at Anu's and then Christian and I headed to the river. I was keen to see if I could follow Caron's directions since we ended up going with Stuart the last time and he knew a different way. Sure enough, a left on the main road out of Gokulam, follow that until it dead ends, then another left and a right at the pink temple. The river was at the end of a long dirt road. The scenery was beautiful! See full photoset.

It may have just been the quietest place in India. We ran across a couple of groups of men who were napping after having a picnic. The place was also teaming with birds. Herons and others that I know I should know the names of. A bright teil Kingfisher flew right in front of me as I was riding back, dipped into the water and past me again. Very cool.

After the long ride in the sun we were ready for some ice cream and went to the gelato place. Yes, believe it or not, there's a great gelato place in Gokulam. My first time there but apparently Christian is a regular. Yummy!

Tonight it's popcorn and chick flicks! No practice tomorrow and I plan to have a lie in...until 6 or 7 at least! :)

Kabini days two and three. The picture says it all. An unbelievable 3 tigers spotted in 2 days!!!!

2008-09-22T02:06:00.001-07:00

Just realised I never linked the pictures yesterday. See here for complete photoset.

After my lie in until 6AM I got woken up by a rap on the door. Tea or coffee? I’ve succumbed to coffee once again. It’s so good in India being grown and roasted here. The jeep came a few minutes later to take us back to the jungle. A few deer and peacocks today, nothing more. We were treated to a ride on the river in a round boat made out of bamboo and tarpaulins. We saw cormorants, egrets, one kingfisher which I couldn’t spot and lots of beautiful scenery.

We were taken directly to breakfast at 9. Mixture of east (dosas, halva, rice, sambar) meets west (toast, jam, eggs, potatoes). It was good.

I spent a nice, leisurely afternoon sitting outside on my patio overlooking a cricket game. Tonight we went back into the jungle by boat. We took a motor boat up the river to watch for game on the banks. There were 2 boats and the other saw elephants. Unfortunately there were none for us to see.

What we did see though was an amazing 2 more tigers! These guides have a sixth sense as to where they will be. Our boat driver saw some movement on the river bank and idled up slowly to the shore. Sure enough. Tiger! Unfortunately we had part of a corporate group with us and they weren’t impressed and wouldn’t shut up until Neha, one of the women on the boat started yelling at him. You go girl! In fact, I was impressed by both Neha and Jyothi...more on them later...but the Durga really came out in them.

The second tiger was fleeting and all we really saw was his hind quarters as he ran away. We started to come away and about 200 meters later there was another one! We saw this one in it’s entirety and he posed for us. First full on face then profile. Amazing to say the least! He was only about 20 meters away. The other boat got so excited they ran into us!

My pictures came out blurry but the one above was caught by Pranev (not sure I spelled his name right). A very smart, very charming 11 year old Indian boy who wants to be a chef and likes Chelsea Football Club and Iron Maiden. Not exactly a combination I would have expected...especially from someone his age.

The weather was nice and the 6 of us (Pravev’s parents Ajit and Jyothi, Rakesh and Neha and myself) intended to go to the campfire. We made it as far as Rakesh and Neha’s cottage for a drink (my first in months) and then to dinner. The 6 of us ended up going on 3 of the 4 safaris together (only Ajit and myself made the last one) and got to be friends. I really enjoyed meeting all of them. Ajit and Jyothi are from Bangalore. He’s an accountant for HP and she’s a writer for a marketing company. Rakesh and Neha are from Pune and he owns his own business and she is a psychologist working for a media company. Meeting them made my trip even more enjoyable and confirmed what I’ve always found before that travelling on your own can be quite fun.

Rakesh and Neha went on to Mysore and I actually caught up with them for breakfast this morning (Monday). They’ve invited me to visit them in Pune, which I’d really quite like to do schedule allowing.
Pranev, the 11 year old Iron Maiden fan proud as punch after taking the "money shot" of tiger #3.

Me, Pranev, Jyothi, Ajit, Neha, Rakesh on our last morning.

Again I have the wrong clothes, one of the weirdest massages ever and, oh yeah, I saw a tiger!!!!, Kabini River Lodge, September 19, 2008

2008-09-20T02:44:00.001-07:00

Story of my life. For someone who hates being cold I never end up with the proper clothing when I travel. I just blissfully think that where ever I go will be warm. Why would I choose to go someplace cold when I hate the cold??? That’s crazy right?

Normally it’s not so bad. An excuse to shop, really. Hard to do though when you’re in an Indian national wildlife refuge, owned by the government of Karnataka (the state I’m in) and one of the few places that has not succumbed to commercialism. So unfortunately, there are no “I saw a tiger in the wild and lived to tell about it” sweat shirts for sale in the gift shop (in fact there’s no gift shop). Looks like I’ll be in the same pair of denim capris and Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute sweatshirt (which I actually brought to sleep in) for 3 days. Oh well, who do I have to impress?

So, where is this haven of non-commerciality? Kabini River Lodge, where the Maharaja of Mysore used to come to hunt, is now one of the leaders in eco tourism in the world. Kabini is at the edge of Nargahole National Wildlife Reserve. I didn’t know a lot about Nargahole until I saw a doco they showed before dinner (which was served at 8:30! Wayyy to late for this yoga student.)

Nargahole has been protected since the 1970’s and is a model of wildlife conservation. They have one of, if not the largest numbers of tiger populations in the wild. That bodes well for the entire eco system since the tiger is at the top of that.

There are 3 things to do at Kabini: see wildlife (there are two safaris a day), have a treatment as the ayurvedic spa (one of the weirdest massages ever...see below) and rest (I actually took one of the very few naps in my life here this afternoon.)

I arrived this morning around 10:30, driven as usual in an old Ambassador (is there any other kind?) Ganesh’s driver was, as usual, courteous, safe and without very much command of the English language. He was very nice and tried to point out landmarks along the way, but all I really got was the identification of a sporting field at Mysore University (which I could have figured out myself by the appearance of what I was looking at and the sign above it saying “Mysore University”.) He did manage to communicate that the road we were on for the last 10 kilometers was the old road (to say the least, there were more holes than road) and that the new road was “black”. I’m still trying to figure that one out.

When I arrived there was the usual Indian flurry and conferring amongst several individuals. I knew right away they didn’t have my reservation (luckily I managed to keep track of and remember to bring with me the booking slip I got from Seagull Travel when I paid for my room) but they never told me that. They gave me several stories including that the previous guest had not checked out (when it was obvious they were far from full). I figured I’d be okay because they were so empty so I went to the restaurant to get a chai while they figured it out. To compensate for my inconvenience they gave me a huge room in the Maharaja’s bungalow itself. Newly renovated and quite nice.

After I’d settled in I decided that I’d quite like to treat myself to a massage. I’ve had 2 ayurvedic massages in the past and they’ve both been pretty weird. This one was no different but had the added angle of being highly uncomfortable since I was laying on a big wooden table with absolutely no padding. Even the Three Sisters (see previous post) had a rubber mat on their garage floor (the door of which being secured by a fork). This had nothing, nadda, zip. I have an extremely protruding tail bone, so needless to say it was not comfortable whilst on my back. My front was not much better since they made me lay with my chin on a vinyl cushion and not turn it to one side. I thought I’d developed lock jaw after being in that position for 1/2 hour.

The massage itself was okay. Two women worked on my simultaneously. It seems the object of this type of treatment is to pour as much oil on me as they possibly could and to rub me in long sweeping motions as vigorously as possible. It was more for circulation than muscle tension relief. They were going at it so vigorously in fact that my g string (useless thing that that is) came loose several times and they had to keep tying it (why they bothered is beyond me since they were now familiar with every other inch of me.

To make matters worse I could barely hear myself think because the guy in reception had the TV on as loudly as possible so he could get the latest breaking coverage of the bomb blasts in Delhi. More bomb blasts in Delhi (yawn).

Something must have worked though, I was actually able to fall asleep as I lay down to nap.

Then at 3:30 I went back to the restaurant for my first safari. I’ll let the pictures tell the story. Lots of deer, monkeys, peacocks, a few wild boar and just before we left the park the jeep came to a screeching halt! The guide jumped out and wildly exclaimed tiger, tiger, tiger! About 300 meters away we saw a shape walking along the far side of the river. All we could really make out without binoculars was that the shape was orange. With the binocs we could clearly see...tiger! He (for the guide said this was a male) had the courtesy to lay down for use to watch him for about 15 minutes before he got up and strode back the way he came.

Even though Nargahole has one of the largest populations of tigers they are still a rare sight as they keep to themselves. The doco described them as ghosts. I felt quite lucky and awe inspired to see this majestic beast in its natural habitat. Long may he remain there!

New Apartment, September 16, 2008

2008-09-16T06:25:00.000-07:00

I’ve moved into a new apartment for the remainder of my time here. I LOVE it! My own space (which is a bit weird after living with people for the last 2 1/2 months.) It’s much quieter than Joseph’s (no barking dogs!!!) and having a two bedroom apartment all to myself gives me a lot more space! The internet connection is exponentially faster which makes life a lot nicer as well.

The apartment belongs to a woman named Saskia, who lives here fairly permanently apparently. That’s her dog on the living room wall. She’s had the same maid, Camela, for 5 years. I wasn’t here to meet her today but came home to find my bed made, dishes done and the house completely clean. Well, all but the bathroom. Apparently that’s below her caste. I was able to arrange “a boy” from Tina to come over so I got those done this morning and (I think) arranged for him to come over twice a week. I say “I think” because all I really got was a head wobble when I asked him. He’s charging me an arm and a leg by Indian standards, but it’s only costing me $3 NZ to get my toilets cleaned. A bargain in my book!

New Kirtanist, September 14, 2008

2008-09-16T06:12:00.001-07:00

Alia’s (Om Cafe) hosted a new and I think professional Kirtanist who’s just arrived in Mysore. Ganesh played the Tablas again. Both were wonderful! I walked out of there buzzing! The night also collected donations to benefit “Operation Shanti”.

New Coconut Guy, September 14, 2008

2008-09-16T06:09:00.001-07:00

I was sitting at the pool today reading the Bhagavad Gita (as you do). The chapter I was reading talked about cycles of life. Actually it talked about the creation and dissolution of the universe and the endless cycles of that creation and dissolution. That was a bit too much to get my head around so I related it to the cycles of life. And so too I was met with a new cycle today. One that I wasn’t sure how I felt about until I learned who he was.

As I walked from the shala there was a truck parked more or less where Bek used to park his, but turned the other way. A young man was tentatively chopping coconuts for the students, assisted by an older man. The young man had a great smile, which should have tipped me off but it wasn’t until later that day at conference that I found out who he was.

Sharath said he didn’t want anyone to take Bek’s place as Bek had served yoga students coconuts for 15 years and he wanted everyone to think about Bek. But then Bek’s son approached Sharath and asked permission to take his father’s place. How could he deny that. And so a new cycle begins, and I’m happy to give my 20 rupees over to him.

The bitter and the sweet, September 12, 2008

2008-09-12T02:35:00.000-07:00

It's been a bitter sweet week this week. The bitter of course being the news that Bek, the coconut guy passed away. That's been very sad but some sweet things are coming out of it as well (see below). The big sweet being Saraswati's birthday yesterday. It's fitting that one of the most beautiful women on the planet was born on a day that will be remembered with grief, pain and sorrow. To all things there is a balance.

Joseph bought her a beautiful eggless chocolate cake from the Southern Star and Robbie (one of the world's nicest men and Joseph's newest guest from San Francisco) and I bought her flowers. We went down at 4:30 when she was teaching the locals. It was awesome! She was so pleased. Several other students brought her flowers as well and by the time we left (after trying the cake) the stage was filling up rapidly with her gifts.

The other sweet is the outpouring of generosity by the students towards Bek's family. There has been a memorial set up where his coconut truck used to be. Many donations are being collected and many students are stopping to say prayers. Thomas at Santosha is also preparing another vegetarian feast tonight for a fund raiser dinner for Bek's family. Matt Corigliano is planning to lead whoever wants to go with him to Bek's house on Monday to present the money to the family.

There are a few other things happening memorial wise as well. Apparently Sharath is going to do a prayer for him at conference on Sunday and on Tuesday Matt is taking a few of us to a place on the river where there are several temples and they do pujas for the dead. We'd been talking about going there for the last month. It seems the time is right now.

The big sweet for me is that Sharath suggested that I learn a specific type of pranayama for my asthma so I got instruction on that and have been practicing it. I don't know if it's that or what but since I've been doing pranayama my meditations and my savasanas have been awesome! The other day I felt like I was floating even before I laid down to go into savasana.

The other sweet for me is that I was finally back in the shala today after missing 3 days for "ladies holiday." Good practice. Nice, even breath, lots of strength and flexibility. Fell out of headstand though. I was really confident going into it and I think I got cocky. Got up right away and went right over. At least I had the presence of mind to flatten my hands so I didn't squash my nuckles like I did the first time. Couldn't get back up so Sharath came over and held my legs for the rest of the 15 counts. (I thought I'd gotten past this! :( ) Then he put me into the 1/2 bend which about killed me. After enough whimpering he finally let me go. My last goal before I leave Mysore is to get up and stay up in headstand for his full 15 counts!

Funny week this one. After 3 days out I finally went back today and tomorrow is rest, then another led class Sunday, Monday moon day and then the rest of the week. I'm missing next week's led class on Sunday too for a trip out of town.

I decided to have a lazy Mysore Friday today. I've been doing too much running around and needed a day of rest. I had a leaving breakfast for Laura from San Francisco this morning (bought some killer pants from her that she's just designed which I can't wait to wear). After my 2 1/2 hour breakfast I wandered over to the salon across from the shala and had a manicure, pedicure, hair trim, brow shape and a great facial...all for $19 US.

Now it's time for some reading before I head over to Santosha. I also think I'll try the Kirtan at the Rama Krishna Ashram this evening (if I can stay awake until 8:00)!

Farewell to Bek, we'll miss you! September 10, 2008

2008-09-10T07:38:00.000-07:00

My friend Sarah left today and I was going to write about the transient nature of life in Mysore and how that shapes the community, shapes your experience within the community and maybe even shapes your own life. People come and go in Mysore. It's a fact of life. People arrive every day and people leave every day. But during the time you share with people here you can get to know them really deeply. Sometimes in just a few days. You can get to know them so well that you feel like you've known them for a lifetime. You may not even know their last name until you hurriedly exchange email addresses before they catch their taxi to Bangalore or what they do for a living, but those details pale in comparison to what you do know about them; their hearts desires, their fears, their goals, how this practice has changed their lives. This is what I was going to write about today.

Then, at lunch, I heard some news that pointed out the transient nature of life. As changeable as life is in Mysore there are certain constants. One of those constants, for years, was Bek. Bek sold coconuts to the students as we left the shala after our practice. He was there every day with a cart full of coconuts. As soon as he saw you leave the shala he'd pick one from the pile, hack the top of with his machete grab a straw, stick it through the hole and it would be waiting in his outstretched hand by the time you reached him. If there weren't a lot of students around he'd be there with your second or third as soon as he heard you slurping the last dregs out of the bottom. He knew how many you liked to have after practice, he knew whether or not you liked to eat the meat inside or just liked to drink the juice. He always wore the biggest smile and remembered students from years gone by. And if you didn't have the 10 rupees that was okay, "pay me tomorrow". Unfortunately today, tomorrow never came for Bek. He died of a heart attack last night. No one knew how old he was exactly, but his family was certain he was not yet 50.

I cried when I heard Bek died. I cried because I'm going to miss his smile. I cried because I didn't realise how much he had touched my heart until I heard he was gone. Most of all I cried because I never took the time to find out that he had 5 children who are now without a father, or that he was a Muslim. Details of a life that were unknown to me until I learned of his death.

It made me start to think about how many other people in my life that I take for granted. How many people I interact with on a daily basis who's names I don't even know. It made me start to think about the uncertainty of life and how it can change in an instant.

Hindus believe that this is but one life out of many and that life is a continuous circle of life, growth, change and death. My beliefs are and have been much the same. I believe that Bek, who brought so much happiness to so many in his own small way, will be reborn into a life that will reward him for the impact he made in this one. At least I hope so. But that belief won't stop me from missing his smile when I walk out of the shala tomorrow.

Thank you to Kyle for supplying the great pics.

Magic Afternoon, Saturday September 6, 2008

2008-09-07T07:21:00.000-07:00

You know those afternoons or evenings that are just magical? You go to a restaurant and the food is good, the ambiance good and the company and conversation superb? I had one of those experiences today. I met Sarah (my new friend from Sydney) at the palace and took a tour. She didn’t know where Rashinkar’s was so I took her there so she could go mat shopping. I bought one myself (a Mysore rug) which I had embroidered with my name. It cost all of $9.

Afterwards we met Stuart (also from Oz) at the Metropole. I’d never been there for their lunch buffet and had heard great things about it. I wasn’t disappointed. I thought the food was superb!

But better than the food was the company. Sarah and Stuart had met only briefly but Sarah wanted to reconnect with Stuart so I set this lunch up to do so. I’ve gotten to know both of them within the last week or so but it seems like I’ve known them both for a lifetime. And it was one of those conversations that went deep, really deep really fast.

It’s such a pleasure to get to that level with people. Without all the bullshit. Just real feelings, real emotions.

All of us are on the same page. All of us want to deepen our spiritual practices, to actually find a guru (or teacher) that we can learn from and all of us are going to be making some changes when we get back home. We are all worried about being able to keep up what we are learning and fining most valuable in India. We’ve agreed to be a support network for each other.

It was time very well spent.

Why a big, pink, elephant headed man in serious need of weight watchers has taken over India. Friday September 5, 2008

2008-09-07T06:57:00.001-07:00

Wednesday was the start of the Ganesha Festival throughout India. Ganesha is probably the most ubiquitous of all deities in India, being revered by all sects and even other philosophies, such as Buddhism. I used to think that Hindu Gods and Goddesses were garish, childish (those who know me well know that I can’t stand animation) and just ugly. I couldn’t relate to them at all. But the longer I’ve spent here the more I’ve grown to like and even love some. I have to admit, I love Ganesha. He’s got the head of an elephant, the body of a man, a big rotund belly and he’s riding a mouse. He’s just as cute as all get out. I love his symbolism as well. Here's what one of the websites says about Ganesha:

“Ganesha's head symbolizes the Atman or the soul, which is the ultimate supreme reality of human existence, and his human body signifies Maya or the earthly existence of human beings. The elephant head denotes wisdom and its trunk represents Om, the sound symbol of cosmic reality. In his upper right hand Ganesha holds a goad, which helps him propel mankind forward on the eternal path and remove obstacles from the way. The noose in Ganesha's left hand is a gentle implement to capture all difficulties.

The broken tusk that Ganesha holds like a pen in his lower right hand is a symbol of sacrifice, which he broke for writing the Mahabharata. The rosary in his other hand suggests that the pursuit of knowledge should be continuous. The laddoo (sweet) he holds in his trunk indicates that one must discover the sweetness of the Atman. His fan-like ears convey that he is all ears to our petition. The snake that runs round his waist represents energy in all forms. And he is humble enough to ride the lowest of creatures, a mouse.”

So how does one celebrate an elephant headed God? See pics here. Well to start off, you go buy a statue of him at one of the many stands along the road.
These statues are typically made of clay and can range from 6 inches to 20 feet tall. Then you set up an alter and do pujas or prayers. Of course it’s not enough to do puja in your own home, you need to go to the local Ganesha temple to pay respects as well.

Luckily we have a Ganesha temple catty corner from our local coconut stand. This one comes complete with its very own fig tree which is quite auspicious being one of the 3 best places to pray. The queues started forming outside of the temple very early in the morning and did not abate until late at night.

I, myself chose to do my puja at Jayashree and Narasimhan’s house in the morning and to go to the temple around 5 in the evening. I met a friend at the temple and then we drove to the Rama Krishna Ashram to check out some classes we’d heard about followed by a light dinner. Light being the operative word for me since I now get up at 3:30 AM every day to practice by 4:30.

There was a laundry across the road from the cafe we were eating at and they’d set up an alter there. When the sun went down they lit some candles, and performed their puja including breaking a piece of crockery on a flame they’d lit in the middle of the road. I don’t know what that was about but it was beautiful! So beautiful I went over and asked if I could take a picture. Well, as soon as any westerner shows interest in them the usual happens, they invite you into their home. We got invited into the laundry and into the next two houses down as well.

A puja is not a puja without food so after my very purposeful light meal I was offered (and of course had to eat every bite of) some sort of sweet chapati (they called it something that sounded like Umberto) with coconut. It was delicious and very filling. We also got about 4 bananas each from doing the rounds of these 2 houses and the laundry. Thankfully I was able to politely decline the cookie they shoved into our hands as we walked out the door. It was actually very sweet and wonderful and what I’m beginning to realise is a common occurance in India.

After our tour of alters we headed back to Gokulam and I checked out the festival grounds where they are having free concerts....apparently for the next 10 days. Everyone was dressed to the nines. There were so many pretty sarees to be seen. Sorry about the blurry pictures but I just had to include them all. I didn’t want to use a flash so I just put my camera on 800 speed ISO but there was too much movement.

So that was Wednesday and it’s now Friday. The celebrations are still going strong. As I write this I can hear the loudspeader blaring announcements and music from 3 blocks away. Sleeping is going to be interesting to say the least. Ahhh, India. If New Zealand is the most beautiful place on Earth, India has to be the loudest.

Why driving a motorbike is a pre-requisite to a mid life crisis. Sunday August 31, 2008

2008-09-07T06:29:00.000-07:00

Ever wonder why so many people (usually men) in their 50’s and 60’s suddenly get the desire to drive motorbikes? I used to think that they were trying to recapture their lost youth, and that certainly may be the case for some. But I never drove a motorbike in my youth, never thought that I would drive a motorbike. I’ve heard too many stories of too many horrific accidents. And I’m a sensible person, right?

I was until I was introduced to my lovely Scooty Pep (Indian brand) with the big, pink Ganesha sticker on her front. Okay, so she’s not technically a motorbike. You don’t straddle her like some male conquest. You rider her in a civilised manner with your legs together, making wearing a skirt infinitely more doable. She can’t get up to the high speeds the big boys can attain, but I’m more than satisfied, thrilled really, with dizzying 55KPH (34MPH) I’ve rocketed her up to.

I must have spent a previous incarnation in India or some other equally whacky traffic haven riding one of these because it turns out that I’m infinitely comfortable dodging traffic, vying for a clear path on the local roundabouts, or blazing a trail down a country road rife with potholes. And big trucks and busses don’t scare me no matter how loud their horns are. They can just wait for me to go where I need to go. I have as much right to the road as they do.

Now anyone who knows me well knows that I’m not the most coordinated person in the world and not the best driver. But somehow that works to my advantage here.

Yoga teaches you to go with the flow and I’ve seen no better example of that then driving here. Traffic driving down the wrong side of the road; no problem. People doing crazy crisscrosses around traffic circles; nothing to worry about. It’s all in your non verbal communication; a nod of the head, meeting someone’s eyes, even your posture. Anything that says, “I’ve got this one” or “You go, I’ll wait”.

It’s just so much damn fun! It’s almost as good as being given a new posture at the shala.

So, why is riding a motorbike a pre-requisite to a mid-life crisis? For me it’s the exhilaration of the wind on my face and having nothing between me and the view. It’s also the shear challenge of it!

So what have I done with Scooty?

On Saturday last week Stuart led Christian and I through some really pretty scenery in back country “old India”. Our ultimate destination was the Cauvery River. Several others had been the weekend before and I wanted to see it. Not getting the best directions before they left we relied on Stuart and he took us the way he knew...to a really good restaurant with the best Gobi Manchurian I’ve had yet. On the way back we stopped at a local village and had some chai with the locals.

The boys alloted me exactly three picture taking opportunities on the ride back: two rice paddies, one cane field and a goat. I never saw the goat but got a pic of a woman carrying an enormous bale of hay on her head. While I was taking pictures of one of the rice paddies I saw a family eating a picnic. I asked if I could take their picture and they invited us to eat with them. Here are all of the results.

Then on Sunday several of us carravanned out about 30 kilometres to a big Shiva temple. The temple was nice, but the ride was great. Not as pretty as the day before but fun to drive that long way. See pics here.

One of the girls ran out of petrol so I volunteered to drive to get some more. We asked where the nearest petrol station was and several hands waved us in one direction and said, “two kilometers, madam.” I drove those two kilometers and asked a rickshaw driver, “petrol station?” he pointed down the road in the direction I was going already and said, “two kilometers madam.” When I got two kilometers further I came to a dead end at a major highway, but no petrol station in sight. Guess what? The guys at the bus stop assured me it was a further 2 kilometers. Much to my surprise I ran into one in about 750 meters. Of course I didn’t have a gas can so I carried a litre of petrol back to the bikes in an empty water bottle, praying the entire way I didn’t blow up!

This week I also graduated to taking passengers as well. I’ve been driving someone back and forth to philosophy class downtown and even went through KR Circle, the busiest area in Mysore. I’ve now taken several passengers several different places and am feeling quite confident.

If the weather is nice tomorrow I may head back out to the river. To feel the wind on my face I’ll happily play the part of the stereotype. My new motto is: if the mid-life crisis fits, wear it.

Pratham, August 29, 2008

2008-09-07T06:13:00.000-07:00

Today I was lucky enough to see a truly grassroots program in action. Pratham is an educational program run all over India. They go into slums and enlist educated women, who’s husbands don’t let them work, to become teachers. They then recruit as many kids as will fit in their living rooms and teach them in a really fun, supportive way.

This is one of the charities supported by Guruji’s charitable trust so we were invited for a tour. I was one of only about 15 people who accepted the invitation and I’m so happy I did.

Now, I am not overly enamoured with children, as most of you know...but I loved these kids and got some of the best pictures I’ve ever taken. Their faces are incredible! See for yourself.

Scooter Update, August 23, 2008

2008-08-23T04:50:00.000-07:00

I've now taken two trips to and from the Southern Star by myself. Well, I followed Joseph on his bike yesterday (I went so slow he commented that we could have parked the bikes and walked there faster). And today Christian drove with me on the back because I'm not ready to take passengers. But I came back by myself both days. Scary but exhilarating!

August 21, 2008

2008-08-23T04:38:00.000-07:00

Feeling much better today. For the most part, this hasn't been the greatest of weeks. Bylakuppe (the Tibetan settlement) was so disappointing, followed by the Royal Walk. Two Indians came to speak with us at Alia's one day during breakfast last week and told us about this walk they have developed showing us "the unseen Mysore". They were so cute, software engineers, originally from Mysore, that now live in Bangalore. They wanted to create this walk to show off the city they are so proud of.

It was okay. The best part about it was seeing the Sanskrit College where Guruji taught and Jagn Mohan palace where he and Iyengar learned yoga from their guru, Krichnamacharia. The rest I could have lived without. I did learn some interesting things about Hinduism though. But after blylakuppe a morning in Mysore city dodging cows, their dung and listing to the noise did me in so much that I declared to everyone who would listen that, "I hate India!" The day really went downhill from there.

The other thing that's added to my malaise is the fact that the people that are here now are a very different vibe from the older students here around the birthday. The energy is very different. And, quite frankly most are pretty boring. I haven't had many interesting conversations since last week with either new or old people. Thank God for Christian and Eva, they are at least keeping me sane.

The bright spots of my week have been my practices...amazing to say the least. Like Christian said today, my base line practice exceeds my best practice ever at home! I'm going truly deep in forward bends and twists, back drops rock and my jump throughs and backs are even getting pretty good.

I also finished my TM class. I've kept up with my twice daily meditations even between the instruction days and I've really enjoyed them. I feel so peaceful and serene afterwards. It's the only meditation I've ever done that I've been able to stick to.

The other two things that have lifted my spirits include the fact that I remembered that I have a bunch of books on my iPod and have started to listen to them. Barbara Kinsolver, oh to write like her! That's made me feel more normal.

But, even more than that is the fact that I rented a scooter! I picked her up yesterday and rode here on roads without traffic for about 45 minutes. Traffic is chaos. There are no stop signs. You beep to signal that you are approaching a crossroad. You beep to signal that you are coming up behind someone, you generally beep to signal anything and everything. The only rule seems to be, if you see a gap go for it! It's like driving in Boston on steroids...except you don't have the luxury of a car around you...just a scooter. Luckily you can go faster than the rickshaws and there aren't that many cars on the road. The busses give me a bit of a fright though.

I didn't have a chance to ride today until late and by that time I'd almost talked myself into turning it back in...but I made myself get on it and ride. I felt confident enough to go down Contour Road along side of my neighborhood and then...up the main road, past the CRAZY traffic circle and up to the roadside helmet place. For $7 NZ I got a helmet that, according to Christian, makes me look like Schultz from Hogan's Hero's (EXACTLY the look I was going for!) I think I'll be confident enough to ride to town by Monday for chanting and philosophy class. It just gives me such a sense of freedom. It rocks!!!! It's also a real challenge to be able to ride in this craziness. It's chaos, but at least it's not aggressive chaos. Om Shanti.

Please do not wash the hands in the plates, Bylakuppe, August 16, 2008

2008-08-16T04:53:00.001-07:00

Please do not wash the hands in the plates
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

View pics here.

Today we (Julian, Christian, Eva, Ida and myself) went to Bylakuppe, the Tibetan refugee camp about 2 hours outside of Mysore. I should have gone with my first instinct and left very early in the morning to beat the tourists and to see if I could catch the monks chanting. I've heard different reports: they chant at 5AM, they chant at noon, they chant all day long at the university. Whenever they chant I didn't hear them. It was okay, but really no more than a tourist destination. I would have much preferred to be there by myself or with 1 or 2 others listening to the chanting.

We did see two cricket games though; monk against monk...well the first was really monklettes (junior monks). Christian even bowled for a bit.

The highlight for me was going to the university (in search of chanting). We only heard one but it was kind of cool though because it was off the beaten path. The stunning thing about all of Bylakuppe was the lack of litter. It was very clean. Refreshing.

Got some cool pictures from the moving vehicle again, but the funniest one was in the restaurant we ate at: "Please do not wash the hands in the plates." I'm still struggling to figure out what that means!

Flute Concert

2008-08-15T05:39:00.000-07:00

These are a few pics of a flute concert in the shala last week. The first is couple are Christian and Leilani (from Hawaii) with the crowd and the shala in the background. This is the room where I practice every day. It's a room that's become very important to me.

August 15, 2008

2008-08-15T05:28:00.000-07:00

I haven’t written in awhile because I’ve been sick. I started having a really bad asthma attach last week sometime. I should have done something about it but didn’t. It got really bad on Sunday and Monday’s practice was horrible. I had to take 3 - 4 breaths between each pose. I tried to skip drop backs but as I was going into forward bend I heard Sharath say, “You! Get up” There was no doubt which “you” he was talking about. It was okay, but Monday and Tuesday I could barely breath. I didn’t go to practice at all Tuesday or Wednesday and I finally broke down and had Joseph get me a corticosteroid inhaler. That immediately cleared my lungs up...and 5 minutes later I started to sneeze. I got a really bad cold.

I started my Transcendental Meditation class with Narasimhan on Monday and got my mantra. How exciting!!! I’ve been given a mantra by a real Indian guru. I’ve been practicing all week long and I have to say it’s the best meditation I’ve ever done. It’s easy to keep the mantra in mind and the meditation style itself is dead easy. I love it.

Narasimhan is so knowledgeable and such a sweet soul. We actually practice in his bedroom. Full of storage boxes, books, papers, etc. He lives like and absent minded professor. Gotta love it. Authentic India complete with monkeys in the trees outside.

I had to stop on Wednesday though. I’ll pick it up next week in the morning.

I started to feel better yesterday so I went with Hernan (his last day was yesterday) and Christian to Das Prakash Hotel for lunch (the biggest tali I’ve ever had!) and to Vinay’s yogic supplies for Hernan to check out some gear for Purple Valley. Were were going to to by the old shala, but couldn’t explain what we wanted to the rickshaw driver. Another time.

Pics below: Christian and Hernan at lunch and random street pictures driving around Laxmipuram.

I made my first attempt at making halva from Jude’s recipe for Christian and Eva last night. It turned out great! What’s not to like though, ghee, sugar (jaggery actually which is much better for you than sugar, sultanas and spices). We had that and a big fruit salad. No practice for me as I’m on “ladies holiday” so I stayed up late!

Today is India Day so everyone is off work. Big shopping day though, of course. I’m steering clear. One of Christian and Eva’s flat mates is from Mexico and made an awesome Mexican mean. Home made corn tortillas, guacamole, salsa and refried beans. Sooo good. Tasted like home. Wherever that is. That distinction is becoming less and less clear these days.

We go to Bylakuppe (Tibetan settlement) tomorrow which should be fun and interesting. Stay tuned for more pictures.

Met some really cool people at breakfast this AM at Santosha. I’ve spoken to Lisa before. She studies with Dr. Kumar and lives in Tucson. She’s a yoga teacher and Ayurvedic practitioner. There was a couple she knows from Tucson now living in NY. She’s a lawyer and he’s a chef. Both Vegan. Started talking to them about Veganism. I got so emotional chatting with them I almost started to cry. I still feel like crying. I’m not sure what that’s about.

Misc Pictures

2008-08-08T05:43:00.000-07:00

Laxmish (my sutras and chanting teacher who is just so adorable you want to put him in your puja room and chant to him!) in traditional garb and then getting ready to ride!

Also a grand opening ceremony for a new Ayurvedic centre setting up just down the street.

3 Sisters, August 8, 2008

2008-08-08T05:17:00.000-07:00

Today I had an experience to remember. I went to the famed 3 Sisters for a true, Indian Ayurvedic massage. They used castor oil which is designed to take heat out of the body and lubricate the joints. It’s thick and sticky! More about that in a minute.

Raju took us over to Laxmipuram where they are. It’s close to the old Shala so we visited it and took our pictures in front of the original Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute.
Jude had taken me before and given me the run down so I gave Ida a bit of a tour. We then went to Vinay’s yogic supplies and I got another rug (great for my protruding cocyx in Navasana) and the cutest little clay Ganesha statue. Then on to the 3 Sisters.

Me in front of original shala.

Hirini, Nagaratna and the third one beginning with an S. They are a bit of an institution in the Ashtanga community and we had to do it at least once. It is traditional Indian. Laxmipuram is certainly not as affluent as Gokulam and there house and shop are in a very non descript street complete with cows picking through rubbish. The house is a traditional house which means the doorways are only about 5 feet high. The house was dingy buy very clean, if you can imagine that (see below).

The massage itself takes place in what looks to be an old garage with a wooden door facing the street (secured by putting an old fork through the lock). It’s got a cement floor and walls and a bamboo roof. The roof is disguised with cloth and the massage area is very tidy albeit bare. On the cement floor lies a 1/2 inch thick grey rubber matt covered with a thinner orange mat. You lay on these naked except for a loin cloth they fashion out of tying a string around your waist and draping a piece of cloth that’s similar to 2 feet of toilet paper between the front and back. They proceed to apply the castor oil onto you and then start massaging you...with their feet! They balance themselves by hanging onto a rope. Hirini is a large, strong woman and you can feel the energy coming out of her feet! The other one (the one beginning with an S) is much smaller. They work on you at the same time and they go quite deep. They then flip you on your sides and on your back and work you head to toe.

After this is all over they take you to their bathing room.
It too is rather dingy but clean. There’s a cement box in the corner with a fire burning below heating water in a compartment above. You scoop it out with a bucket and add enough cold to it to make it acceptable. To get the castor oil off of you they apply a nut powder paste which looks like chocolate. It’s almost as sticky as the oil, but it does the trick. Then they rinse you with hot water. I thought it would feel very weird to be bathed by two women I didn’t know, but it actually felt quite normal.

Afterwards we stayed for lunch. Delicious! I had three chapattis, two helpings of delicious potatoes, 2 helpings of green beans and some other concoction of something yellow that almost tasked like egg and cooked celery.

Don’t know if or when I’ll do it again, but I’m glad I did. It really was an experience and they are all delights!

Breaking News...I bound in Supta Kurmasana by myself for the first time! August 6, 2008

2008-08-06T07:20:00.000-07:00

Best practice ever. I went very deep in my and my Janu Sirsanas and Marichyasanas and back bends (5 in total with the first three and the last two only dropping to my head and not all the way to the floor). Drop backs felt good. In fact I had time to do a few half drop back by myself before Saraswati came to help. The big news...I bound in Supta Kurmasana by myself for the first time! I was so happy I could have sung! My feet are not yet crossed but I can put my head to the floor within my feel which is pretty exciting. I also managed to get my hands all the way to my face in Gaba Pindansana for the first time. Wee ha!!!

Went to a new philosophy class downtown with Jayashree and her brother. Sorry, don't have a link but they are both very learned scholars and friends of Guruji's. She chants and he explains. Wonderul people with warm, open, loving hearts. He is starting a Transcendental Meditation class on Monday which I'm going to attend.

Got a ride on the back of Hernan's motorbike. I met him a few weeks ago with Rachel. We shared a table at Tina's cafe. He's from Spain but grew up in the UK. He owns Purple Valley in Goa. Nice guy. After class we hung out at the pool where he bought me lunch. Never really thought of Palek Paneer as pool food, but this is India. After a quick coffee (tea in my case) at Barista he headed to a massage and I to chanting with Laxmish.

Chamundi Hill through August 4, 2008

2008-08-05T07:35:00.000-07:00

Not too much to report. We’ve got a new house mate, Julian. Originally from Montreal but now is in DC working for the IMF. He’s got a PhD from Berkley. A real slacker! :)

The day he arrived (at 3AM) was the day the outgoing Ida, who found a beautiful and much cheaper place right be the shala, and I decided to climb Chamundi Hill.

Click here for more pics. We walked up in silence as pilgrims are meant to do. I think we were the only ones in silence. Everyone’s cell phone seemed to be blasting an FM radio station with Bollywood music. Julian decided to join us to keep awake. Pretty hard core as it’s about 1,000 feet elevation gain. And it was hot. Felt good to do some aerobic exercise though. My calves are still feeling it. The only part of my body not worked by my Ashtanga practice.

Luckily I knew what to expect. The place was a dump with tonnes of monkeys running around. The temple was exceptionally crowded as it was the day of the eclipse. They take this stuff very seriously. We were all advised not to travel or eat during the eclipse as there were “much poisons in air”. Of course a lot of us did and by God, I don’t know if it’s the power of suggestion or what but a lot of us also got sick, including me. For about 24 hours afterward I was really fluey.

As a result I had the most horrible practice of my life on Sunday. I dragged myself through it and couldn’t even go into backbend. I got so nauseous I came back down. I think Sharath knew I wasn’t feeling well because he just left me alone. Monday’s practice was much better. My drop back rocked! Best I’ve done yet. Today’s practice rocked. I’m up to 5 backbends. According to Sean my chiro, the first three are for warm up and the last 2 really open up your chest and shoulders. It seems to work. No compression in my low back, now I’m feeling it in my mid back. Today’s practice was awesome. Nice, even breath and I was able to get really deep. Drop back sucked though. First one by Saraswati in awhile and I think I was nervous. Still can’t do shoulder stand to save my life. Simmi was next to me during finishing poses and the dear, sweet woman she is offered to help me. Tomorrow is her and David’s last day. It’s sad, I haven’t gotten to know them well, but they are both so beautiful, inside and out. Can’t wait to visit their shala in Adelaide.

They days seems to flow one into another. Practice, sutras or chanting class, followed by pool

or reading with the occasional hanging out at the coconut stand.
Have started cooking myself lunch on non pool days and I’m really enjoying seeing what I can create. Yesterday it was tofu stir fry with Okra (ladyfingers is what they call it) and tomato. The day before it was a wonderful concoction of kohlrabi, sliced tomato and avocados (which are beautiful here!) with a bit of lime and salt sprinkled over it. I love eating simply and my routine seems to be working.

Breaking news! I’ve found what looks to be a really good source of protein powder with added herbs. All natural and highly filtered whey powder, so I’m less concerned about a protein deficiency.

Tomorrow I may hitch a ride with someone to Jayashree’s brothers downtown for chanting class.

Anyway, that’s all the news that is news in Gokulam.

July 29, 2008

2008-07-29T06:59:00.001-07:00

Haven't written a lot because I've really gotten into a nice routine and haven't had much to say. We are going sightseeing on Friday so stay tuned for more pics.

Thought I’d be pretty melancholy today with Jude and Peter gone but it was a really nice day. I had one of the best practices I’ve ever had. It felt like all of my joints were lubricated with oil, they all moved so nicely. I almost bound in Supta Kurmasana thanks to Jude’s coaching before I left. Got all the way through Ghaba Pindasana to put my chin on my hands and rolled all the way around. Back bends were amazing! I used Dena’s backbending method to roll up my vertebrae one at a time and was able to really get height. No compression in my low back at all. Sharath dropped me back and gave me coaching on my breathing during drop backs. No pain! Woo hoo!!!! Didn’t get up in headstand very much at all. I went all the way over yesterday and rolled over my hand. It’s still a bit painful so I was a bit timid today.

Breakfast at Alia’s with Ida, now my only housemate, followed by Sutra’s class (really getting interesting now) and then went to the stand up dosa bar for some dosas with Basia. She wanted me to go with her so she wasn’t the only westerner there (tall and blonde as well...she definitely stands out!) Lunch at Anu’s after doing some sutra reading and then met Christian and Eva (both Aussies but until recently Yoga Academy teacher trainees in Auckland). They arrived on Saturday and are settling in.

We spent the afternoon at the house chatting and them checking email, etc. A quick round of the neighborhood shops to check out different clothing options and then they accompanied me to register for my second month at the shala. Guruji was there in the office. I don't think it was one of his best days. I said hello and he looked at me as if he were trying to place me. It was still nice to see him though. Sharath moved me up to a 6AM start time. I’m happy about that. It will give me a bit more time in the morning.

Now that Peter and Jude are gone I want to get into a bit of a different routine where I spend more time reading and meditating. Really working on my inner journey. Nothing to distract me. Well, almost nothing. No one warned me that practicing at this level made your hormones go crazy!!!! Unfortunately no interesting, unattached men in sight. Oh well, that would just make me crazy anyway. I keep having to remind myself...this is a spiritual journey! :)

A fond Farewell, July 28, 2008

2008-07-29T06:36:00.000-07:00

It's with great sadness that I said goodbye to Peter and Jude today. Having them here for the last month has been such a blessing. Not only have they "shown me the ropes" in Mysore but my friendship with both has deepened. I have rarely had friends as loving and giving as the two of them.

Thanks guys for the laughter, the stories, the sharing, the great conversations, the evening fruit salad ritual, pongol, halva and, of course, Jude's wonderful chai. Knowing you has enriched my heart and soul and I'll miss you greatly. Not only here but seeing you regularly in Auckland.

First Drop Backs, July 24, 2008

2008-07-25T07:57:00.000-07:00

Haven’t written in awhile. One day melts into the next and everything revolves around the practice. It’s such a unique experience.

My practices have been coming along really nicely. I’m looking less like a dead fish flopping on the shore during Chakrasana (a way to exit a posture you do lying on your back by lifting your legs over your head and pushing up so that you don't roll over your neck (in theory). I’m actually doing headstand in the middle of the room...today for 10 breaths. So, I’ll be ready in tomorrow’s led class. It’s been flowing okay, not as focused as I’d like but not totally unfocused either. And the BIG news!

Last week Sharath asked me if I’d done my backbends as he saw me getting ready to leave. “Yes”, I said confidently and went into the changing room. “Oh oh I thought, I know where this is leading”. The next day Sarashati hovered over me as I was doing my backbends and I ignored her. She just squashed me into forward bend afterwards and let me go. And then Tuesday this week Sharath asked me again if I’d done backbends. “Yes”, I replied with a big smile and tried to get past him. No such luck. He asked, “Who helped you?” “No one”, said I truthfully, to which he replied, “Tomorrow you wait.” Hmmmm.

Sooo, after doing my practice (I’m surprised I wasn’t a nervous wreck!) and finishing with my backbends I stood up to wait. Sharath saw me standing and came over. The dreaded dropbacks! I really never thought I’d be able to do these. These are when the instructor holds you from the front and you go back into a full back bend from standing after doing three half backbends. The thought of going back never particularly bothered me. I used to do backflips into the water all the time when I swam. But I was afraid of what the backbend would do to my low back; especially how it would feel when they jerked me up. But, wonder of wonders it felt good. Sharath was not impressed with my slapping my hands to my thighs when I came up, but I was totally impressed that I did it!!!

The other big news is that I learned how to make Jude’s chai today (see recipe at the side). For those of you who have not tasted, it’s the best chai on the planet. Made better by all of the great, fresh and very potent spices here. She’s told me how to make it before but this time she talked me through it so it’s embedded in my brain. I actually made it again this morning for a big breakfast that Joseph made. Dosas and fruit salad with a savory subgee and coconut chutney. Delicious! I made soy chai for Rachel (a vegan) which also turned out well. Joseph invited Basia, another senior teacher who is Polish / Canadian but has lived in Japan for the last 10 years. She’s now moving to Poland and Norway but travels quite a bit teaching. He also invited a woman named Katherine who is an academic from Oxford. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to speak with her very much.

Yesterday we all went to the Southern Star for the reopening of the pool. It had been closed since I got here for refurbishment. It’s nice to have a pool so close. It’s just as nice as Wind Flower, although the setting is not nearly as tranquil. I had a veggie burger (which tasted like curry) with fries. I also had a manicure, pedicure, brow shape and head and shoulder massage for $32 NZ!

I started another chanting class today. This one concentrates on specific prayers that Guruji wants the yoga students to learn. I don’t know what they mean but I was buzzing afterward. I loved it.

My yoga sutras class is getting pretty intense. We’re getting into some really interesting topics, like the cosmology of the universe. It’s fascinating, a lot like quantum physics. I’m reading two translations at the moment. Iyengars which is completely dry and a beautiful little book that I got for 30 rps at a local ashram. This is the one that Laxmish actually reads from. There are a couple of ashrams around here that have books. I’ll have to check the other out.

Between the yoga sutras, the two chanting classes and the back bends I’ve been in a really interesting head space the last couple of days. I go between being completely happy and content, almost blissful (wow, look at that cool butterfly kind of blissful) to wanting to cry for no reason. I guess my inner journey is starting in ernest.

Wind Flower: my first Ayurvedic massage, July 20, 2008

2008-07-20T03:59:00.000-07:00

Feeling great today. Best I’ve felt since I got to India actually. Really hot again.

Woke up at 4AM and had a terrible meditation. Just couldn’t focus my mind. Pretty good practice though. A bit stiff as I didn’t do a lot of pre practice warm up. Knees have been a bit tender recently as well. It was a nice flow and I found myself not worried about too much (will he stop me, won’t he). He didn’t. It would have been even better had I been a wee bit more open. Tomorrow should be good. Got up in headstand then got scared and came down. The main thing that’s stopping me now is fear. I think I’m strong enough to do it and I have a sense of balance. I just need to get over my fear. Hmmm, something to confront. Can’t wait to try it tomorrow. Ghaba Pindasana is getting easier and easier to get into I’m happy to say. Didn’t bind in Supta Kurmasana but held a washcloth so that was okay.

Can I just stop here and say how incredulous I am that I can even do this practice? Me, who was called “cupcake muscles” by my parents when I was younger, am doing Ashtanga yoga. And doing poses that I would never have believed I could do in a million years! I just absolutely love this practice. It’s taught me so much about myself and helped my stretch (literally and figuratively) beyond where I thought possible. It’s also taught me patience. It’s not something I consider myself terribly “good” at. I don’t have the beautiful practice that many people I know have and that’s humbling, but I can’t believe the progress that I continue to make.

I did get a wonderful compliment today though. A woman who arrived at the same time I did, Daniella from Serbia, always practices behind me. She likes the back of the room, I like the second row. She told me today how I have a nice practice. That was so wonderful to hear. You’re not actually supposed to make those judgements, but we all do. She’s only been practicing 4 months, but still, a bit of a boost.

After practice I just felt so, I don’t know, settled. Like I don’t have a care in the world. I can only remember feeling this way a few times in my life. It’s wonderul.

Yoga sutras at 10AM and then I met Jude and Peter at Wind Flower, a Balinese type spa and mini resort wayyyy on the other side of Mysore. Lovely, especially by Indian standards. Simple, clean and tranquil. We hung out by their pool for awhile (Joseph joined us), had a really nice lunch in an open air restaurant and then Peter and I had massages.

My first Ayurvedic massage. Two people work on you at once. You’re completely naked except for a pair of disposable “panties” which are nothing more than a long narrow piece of cheesecloth like material and a piece of elastic that goes around your waist. They started with me in a chair. Once washed my feet and the other massaged my head. Then I moved to a table. It was a plactic picnic table kind of deal with a stiff rubber mat shaped like a person glued to it. More cheesecloth to lay on. After the full body massage they take you to the shower (traditionally they actually bathe you, but I opted for self serve). The give you this gritty substance to wash your body in to absorb the coconut oil and a really thick shampoo. Then there was 10 minutes in a jacuzzi. A bit strange but good.

The whole day just added to my feeling settled, relaxed and happy. It’s a good feeling.

July 19 2008

2008-07-19T08:08:00.000-07:00

Totally lazy day. We have a new housemate. A woman named Ida (pronounced Eda) from Denmark. Young girl still in uni, studying economics. Very sweet. We took her to Alia’s for breakfast. The Scotts are leaving today so said goodbye. I just couldn’t get off of my chair to leave it was so comfortable out there in the gardens. Bruno is so sweet and I even saw Alia and little Nalu today. Had my usual french toast with honey and a side of a scrambled egg with lots of spiach. Peter and Amna came by as well and got more of a chance to speak with her.

Walked back to the ashram to buy another copy of Patangalis Yoga Sutras (the one Laxmish reads from) and picked up some fruit. Spent about an hour talking to Peter and Joseph and then it was lunch time!

Tried a new Indian restaurant called 6th Main. Good food but hot. Much hotter than Nalpack. Atmosphere nice though. Open air concept and they play a completely eclectic mix of big band and 70’s music. After that we wandered down to Barista for a Mango smoothie. That’s about the extent of energy I plan to expend today.

Guruji's Birthday, July 18, 2008

2008-07-19T07:59:00.000-07:00

Guruji’s birthday (see full set of pics and be sure to view it in slideshow). Up early. Jude greeted me with some Miso and a cup of chai. Wonderful! Early breakfast at Alia’s with the Scotts before going home to get ready for Guruji’s birthday party. We arrived a little after 11 to a large, very nice (by Indian standards) hall. This was Sharath got engaged and married apparently. It was a bit of a madhouse. Filled to capacity on the ground floor with theatre type seating and a stage at the front. Guruji and Saraswati were sitting at the side of the stage and there were a series of students performing various songs and dances. Most of the students in Indian garb and many many looking very uncomfortable wearing sarees for the first time. I opted for an outfit I had made at Badsha’s (not a saree).

Then Guruji went up on stage and the students formed a line to wish him a happy birthday. There was a minder trying to keep the line moving and trying to stop photos so that it wouldn’t take so long but people were milling at the stage with their cameras anyway. I got pictures of Peter and Jude with Guruji but they didn’t turn out very well. In fact most of my pics were blurry unfortunately. I got over confident with my camera and didn’t take doubles on the automatic settings.

When it was my turn I walked on stage, knelt and took the prana from the area of his feet. You couldn’t touch his feet because they were covered with flowers. This year for the first time they didn’t want you to touch his feet. Not sure why but it must have something to do with his health. I looked him in the eye and said Namaste, trying to convene my gratitude to him for what the practice has meant to me and what studying here, in this lineage means to me right now. I’m sure he got it on some level.

Dinner was amazing!!!! There were long, thin trestle tables with banana leaves and cups of water laid out. We mopped up the dew drops from the banana leaves and didn’t drink the water in the cups. Being Brahmin (of the priestly caste) they can only be served by Brahmin cooks and Brahmin servers. They were in the traditional garb of a lungi with a Brahmin “thread” over their shoulders. These Brahmin servers would come down the line with buckets of various foods (spiced rice, white rice, various subgee (vegetable) dishes both raw and cooked, rice pudding, some sort of coconut square, birthday cake and the real dessert of a huge pastry with icing sugar and some sort of custardy substance. This was all followed by more rice and curd (yogurt) which is supposed to cool you down after consuming all of the chilis in the subgees. I forgot to save the rice pudding to mix with the curd which is extremely sour so I didn’t have that. It was wonderful food but wayyy too much.

Rickshaw back home and a lazy night talking to Rachel. We had a really good chat (for about 6 hours...when do you ever have time to talk to someone in that depth???) She’s very disciplined. She’s got a beautiful practice, having practiced for 6 years and is getting a number of second series postures. She’s also a vegan and very strict. She cured herself from very bad rhumatoid arthritis a few years ago (she’s only in her mid 30’s as well). She’s made a commitment to come back here in January and hopes to come back several times over the next couple of years. She and her husband sound like a really interesting couple. She and I showed each other pics on our computers. She had a number of pics from the Burning Man festival which they go to every year. That’s on my list of things to do. So much to do in this big, wide world!!!!!

Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My! July 17, 2008

2008-07-19T07:36:00.000-07:00

Complete set of pics from day including both temples, the palace, the bird sanctuary and some random pics taken from the car of life in rural India. Be sure to view in slideshow.

Well, to be more accurate: Temples and Palaces and Crocodiles oh my! Not to mention the monkeys (see above me in pic to the left).

First of 3 days off. They are preparing for Guruji’s birthday. I woke up at my usual 5AM and got ready for a big excursion (I’d suggest the slideshow feature to view the pics). I met Kelly and Eva at 7AM at Anu’s and took off in what looked to be a 1970’s vintage mercedes. The good news was that it was nice and roomy. The bad news is that it had never had its shock absorbers replaced. “Fasten your seat belts girls, it’s going to be a bumpy ride!”

Our first stop was Somnathpur Temple about 33 kilometers outside of Bangalore. It took an hour to drive that 33 kilometers. Driving through rural India is an experience. Really, similar to Mysore but on a smaller scale. Villages with dusty streets, few or now sidewalks / footpaths, lots of dust, lots of trash, shops selling all sorts of colourful wares and people everywhere. Lots of oxen drawn carts (the one I really wished I’d gotten a picture of is the oxen drawn cart carrying two motorcycles! Analog vs digital. :)

I saw a number of people working fields of all kinds. Some of them looked like wheat but could have been ragi or finger millet, a type of millet high in protein. Others were definitely lentils or dal and still others rice. We kept driving over patches of what looked like hay that had fallen off of a cart. Our driver made no attempt to avoid these patches even though there were obviously people tending to them. At first I thought that was rude, then I realised there were too many of them for them to have been accidental spillages. I asked the driver, who’s english was pretty good and he said that it was dal. They put the dal on the road and let the cars separate the lentils from the stalks! That’s using mechanisation in a non mechanised world!

Many of these fields had streams running beside them and 2 or 3 times I saw lots of brightly coloured sarees laying out to dry. The woman had obviously washed their clothes in the stream and were drying them on the tops of the plants. It was actually quite beautiful.

We got there an hour before the temple opened. I didn’t really want to get out of the car because as soon as we pulled up half the village approached us with their hands out and I knew I didn’t have enough 10 rupee notes with me to satisfy everyone (note to self...stock up on 10 rupee notes whenever you sight see....although it’s always a bit of a mission to have enough of these for day to day living).

Not to worry, our driver assured us. Another temple, much newer (well the one we were waiting to see was built in 1268 so that wouldn’t have been hard) just down the road. We were keen to walk as it looked like quite a nice walk but our driver insisted on doing what he was hired for...down a grass track with more pot holes that you could count (did I mention the lack of shocks on the car?) We were a bit afraid of a flat and God only know whether or not he had a spare, but he made it without any problems. The temple was small and very brightly painted with a couple of small rooms with deities that I was not familiar with. There was a state of a snake and a big golden pole. I should be able to relate what all of these are as there was a very nice older gentleman that insisted on giving us a tour (for a donation of course). He was teaching a young brahmin boy and would punctuate his tour by asking the boy to fetch him certain things, like a photo album of obviously some big dignitaries visiting the temple when it was opened (about 6 years ago from what I could ascertain), a couple of flyers describing God knows what, a few bananas and a bag of sweets. He spent an our with us and was very thorough so I should be able to tell you all about what I was seeing, but I can’t because I did not understand a single thing he said! I think Eva and Kelly got some of it but I got not a word. It was a lovely spot and a lovely temple so I enjoyed my time there nonetheless.

Onto the main temple then. Interestingly the admission was 5 rupees for Indian citizens and 100 rupees for all foreigners. That seems to be the going rate everywhere we went today.

This temple was absolutely stunning! Incredibly intricately carved with a main structure around the perimeter wish small pooja or prayer rooms running every few feet and a smaller inner structure that was absolutely gorgeous. Some of the carvings were quite interesting as they depicted couples having sex. Well, I guess India is the land of the Kama Sutra.

It was so peaceful there. Very few people. Just lovely.

After about an hour of wandering around we were off again. Our next stop was the summer palace of Tippu Sultan (after another hour long drive through rural India). Apparently Karnataka, the state we are in was ruled for centuries by the Wodeyer dynasty except for 30 years when it was usurped by Tippu Sultan and his father before him. This palace is known for the fact that every inch is covered with paintings. In it’s day it must have been quite magnificent, but now it’s decaying and I found it quit sad. There were other historical artifacts and paintings that were so poorly lit you could barely see them.

After another short drive we found ourselves in a fort. Apparently this was built on a river fork so they made it into an island by closing off the land side and building fortresses on the river banks. There were several items of interest in here but we just stopped at the dungeon where Tippu Sultan kept many British prisoners (some for up to 7 years). This didn’t look like any fun as they prisoners were chained standing with their arms outstretched between two pegs. During the rainy season the dungeon would fill with water covering some prisoners to the neck, according to our unofficial tour guide (we found out he was unofficial after he gave us the tour and asked us for a handout). You have to wonder though what happened to the shorter of the prisoners...

That treatment pissed off more than one British soldier which eventually let to Tippu Sultan's undoing...the site where his body was found was marked a fee hundred meters from the dungeon.

Our next stop was another larger temple. The Ranganathaswamy Temple is apparently quite famous and is much more active with lots of shops selling their wares along with people hawking everything from wooden flutes, bracelets and small deities. It’s hard to get rid of these guys they get right in your face. Not to mention the beggars. Needless to say I was out of 10 rupee notes and one of the other girls had to pay the bakshish (bribe) to get our shoes back after seeing the temple.

This temple was okay, but I didn’t like it nearly as much as the other. What was interesting was the monkeys...obviously well fed monkeys by their pictures.

Our last and my favourite stop of the day was the Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary. This was lovely! You didn’t really see any birds unless you were on the river, so we paid 500 rupees for a private boat (to the chaigrin of the many Indians waiting for the public boat which was filled to capacity).

It was brilliant! We say plovers and courmarants and storks and all sorts of birds. Not to mention a number of fresh water crocodiles!!!!! That was cool. Got some great pics of birds.

More importantly for that 1/2 hour on the river I felt normal again. It’s amazing what being in nature does for me. It grounds me and brings me back to what’s real. It centers me and makes me feel good about myself and the world. I loved it!

Back home for a light meal of fruit salad. I was soooo tired and strung out at the same time! An adventure like that at home would be one thing, but here it’s just exhausting!!!!!

Kirtan, July 16, 2008

2008-07-19T07:09:00.000-07:00

Short post today. Not much happened until I was leaving Anu’s after my usual after chanting smoothie (banana, date, fig and almond). Ganesh asked me if I was coming to Kirtan. My ears perked up immediately. Kirtan? I’ve been hoping to attend some Kirtan while I was here. I haven’t done that since Dallas days. Both with my very first Iyengar teacher, Lisa and the couple times I took darshan (blessing) with Ammachi.

I love Kirtan. Basically it’s the chanting of Gods and Goddesses names in very simple songs, some quite ancient, some more modern. The most recognisable chants or Om Nava Shiva and Hare Krishna but there are many many others.

Anyway I went down to Santosha and took part in my first Kirtan. There were only about 12 people there and it was really wonderful. Ganesh played drums and someone named Peter (very cute) played the traditional Indian instrument I can never remember the name of. Not great pics as I was not going to use a flash and needed a tripod. Hopefully they will do this regularly.

John and Lucy's Anniversary Party, July 15, 2008

2008-07-15T07:45:00.001-07:00

Lucy, Finn, John, India and Kelsey
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

CRAZY busy day. Practice was good but started out a bit stressful with my chiropractor’s daughter running around the shala for the second day. Apparently the new nanny doesn’t like it when she cries and brings her to the shala. She wanders in and out and cries first from mummy then daddy. Very distracting and dangerous to her with all of those people doing jumpbacks. Karen, Sean’s wife sat her down next to her and continued to practice. This was after Sharath had her for a period of time. I couldn’t take it. I’m not spending all of this money for my yoga teacher to babysit someone’s child. So when I was called in I went up to Karen and asked her if she and Sean could come at different times so that the baby wasn’t in the shala. She told me that I should appreciate what they are going through. Yes, far be it that one of them should miss a practice...they can just inconvenience the other 50 people in the room. I told her I thought that it was quite inconsiderate. By the time I got back from the changing room she was gone. I was, of course in my head debating with myself whether I’ve done the right thing and thinking that I’m never going to be able to get another chiropractic adjustment!

When I cam home and mentioned it to Peter, Jude and Rachel they were quite supportive. Rachel said that all of these kids and the parents that can’t control them have been a real problem for her since she’s arrived. Hmmmm, watch this space.

I was off to Yoga Sutra class at 10 and at 11 came back home to the already started surprise party for John and Lucy Scott’s 14th anniversary. The girls (their daughter India and her friend Kelsey planned it). Joseph made his famous fruit salad and Bill and Lisa, Peter and Amna and David and Simmi (an American couple living in Oz) were there. The food was wonderful topped off by Jude’s exquisite Chai. It was a real Kiwi contingent and everyone, of course has an Ashtanga practice. Wonderful conversation. I just love being surrounded by people like this.

I met Jude at KR Circle after a call to Australia (the power, of course, went out just as I was dialing out on Skype). That’s 5 power cuts today. It’s getting a bit ridiculous!!!

She and Peter had a dentist appointment and then Peter went home and Jude and I went shopping for deities. I found some wonderful sandalwood ones. Of course I didn’t have enough money with me so I had to get on the shop owners motorbike to go to the ATM. Boy was that an experience and did I get the looks. I did not ride side saddle like the Indian women. I had my skirt hiked up above my knees and on the back of a bike being driven by and Indian man it caused quite the scene. It was fun though darting in and out of traffic. He thought it was funny! See pic of shop. And of the shop next door! Don't those chickens look appetising?

Back to Badsha’s after for my final fitting. All of my clothing should be finished by Guruji’s birthday.

Dinner was hummus on a kohlrabi, a piece of toast and some miso Jude made me.

We started to watch the movie “Sicko” by Michael Moore and...guess what...the power went out again! Off to bed now. Special led class tomorrow as Thursday is moon day and Friday Guruji’s birthday. The shala is going through many preparations and Vedic ceremonies on Thursday to celebrate.

July 14, 2008

2008-07-14T08:53:00.000-07:00

I feel like I had a productive day today. Started out with a great meditation. Really felt focused and felt as though I drifted away. Carried it through to my practice as well.
I was a woman on a mission today - determined to get to Supta Kurmasana and then Gaba Pindasana and not get stopped. I sailed through to Navasana. I felt strong, focused, and it really flowed. I managed to almost get my hands together in Supta Kurmasana and then asked for Saraswati’s help. I got into Gaba by myself and rolled around about a billion times only going about 3/4 of the way. Finally went up into Kukkutasana. I know Sharath saw me and he gave me a verbal adjustment in Upavistha Konasana afterward. Sooo, hopefully I can make it through the primary series. We’ll see how it goes.

Had a long leisurely breakfast at Alia’s today. Met the Scotts and saw some friends of theirs, Tom and Sasha. Tom is from Ireland (no sign of my Irish lad today unfortunately) and Sasha from Russia. Tom trades for a living and Sasha is hoping to become authorised to teach yoga but she’s recently torn her miniscus. They live here permanently (at least for the next 11 months) and then they may move to France.

Beautiful weather. The best we’ve had. Sunny and HOT (in the 90’s). I actually took some better pics of Chez Mr. Joseph so check those out in the post below. Came home around noon and studied my Yoga Sutras and even started to read the Bhagavad Gita. Peter maintains that that’s a political doctrine designed to keep the lower castes and women in their place so I’ll be interesting to have a read. This is a very easy copy recommended by Laxmish for chanting class.

Lunch at Anu’s. I’ve been invited by Kelly (the Canadian actuary) and Eva (the Swedish Lawyer) to tour some palaces on Thursday which will be great. Too hot, came home to take a nap and do some more reading.

Monsoons finally seem to be here. The last two days it’s POURED for an hour around 4PM. I just made it to chanting class and the skies opened up. Laxmish said I was very clever because I arrived early; he was still teaching the Sandskrit class before chanting.

Had a quick smoothie at Anu’s and now I’m off to bed. Not so lonely today. Really feel good about things.

July 13, 2008

2008-07-14T08:52:00.000-07:00

Back in practice. My first led practice with Sharath...but it wasn’t. Sharath led the first one and Saraswati did ours. But Sharath popped out just before Navasana to adjust people in Marichyasana D and then Supta Kurmasana and Bhuji Pindasana. I struggled through Navasana and he saw me, I didn’t get an adjustment in Supta Kurmasana and barely got into Gaba Pindasana. He stopped me. RRRRR, I was afraid of that. If you can’t do a pose then you’re stopped and have to sit out until finishing postures. I soooo wanted to go through (and have been) the whole primary series. I don’t particularly want to ever do second series but I do want to be able to complete the whole primary series including Chakrasana and headstand (not against a wall). Then, to make matters worse he asked me if I was registered and made me go get my card! I think Jude was more upset than I but it wasn’t fun. I was a bit upset all day that I was stopped.

On the positive side though, my practice until that time was great. It really flowed and I was strong. I even got up in headstand...and then fell over barely missing the woman in front of me. Oh well.

Breakfast at home (almond butter and some yummy banana carrot cake from a guy who sells bread, hummus, tofu and juice to the students as they come out of the shala).

I started my Yoga Sutra class today at 10. Again with Laxsmish. He’s such a sweetie. The Yoga Sutras are the bible of yoga. They were written (they think) by a sage named Patanjali. He also wrote treatises on grammar and medicine (Ayurveda), thus encompassing language, the body and spirituality. Does this sound familiar to anyone? For all of my Tony Robbins friends it should...physiology, focus and language (it’s just a
fu$#ing triad!) Written thousands of years ago. It doesn’t talk about the asana practice at all, but the other components of yoga and the ultimate goal of all yoga (stilling the mind). We’re using Iyengar’s translation which I happened to bring with me with the intention of reading. Very glad I’m taking the class, it will give me a structured environment to finally study the Sutras.

Big lunch today back at the Southern Star. Buffet and we even had dessert! Met Joseph and some more friends who have just arrived for Guruji’s birthday; a couple from Canada and a woman who’s moving from Japan (although originally Canadian) to Finland and then maybe Poland. Lots of interesting people here.

Transitions, July 12, 2008

2008-07-14T08:51:00.000-07:00

I couldn't stand it anymore. I had to do a self practice (today is Saturday so rest day). 3 days off is enough and this will be a short week anyway with Guruji's birthday. I got up at 5:30 and meditated in the Puja room. I didn't warm up very much but just went straight into my practice. I can honestly say that it was one of the worst practices I've done in years! I was so stiff, I could barely move. I skipped headstand, Setu Bandasana and I think a couple of others I was so pissed off. Oh well, there are days like that.

Not only am I going through transitions in my life at the moment, the shala is as well and today it started to affect me. All of the older students are really mourning the fact that Guruji isn't teaching anymore and that he's hardly around. They miss him terribly. I can understand why. According to them their practices with Guruji were very intimate. Not many people in the room and although he was very tough and strict he was also very very compassionate and kind.

Sharath is definitely taking over and, as you would expect, is making his mark on the shala. He's implemented an ID system (we have cards now which, apparently you never used to have) and if you didn't register ahead of time you cannot practice in the main shala (during Sharath's times) but rather you practice later with Saraswati. Almost none of the long term (older) students have registered so there are some very experienced people practicing with Saraswati. Senior teachers like John and Lucy Scott and other very advanced practitioners who are into 4th series. None of them like it very much and most feel put out because of their long going relationship with Guruji. I can completely understand how they feel and completely understand the grief they are processing with losing not only their teacher, but also a member of their family. Many of these people were married by Guruji (including Peter and Jude) and he's been a central part of their lives for a very long time.

While I understand this I also have to distance myself from it. I don't have this relationship with Guruji. I was lucky enough to have practiced with him when he came to NZ in 2002 and got A LOT of attention from him but I don't have a relationship with him. My teacher will be Sharath or another senior teacher to be determined. My path will be different and it makes me sad on one hand, but as they say in India, "not good, not bad...just is." That's definitely the position the older students are trying to take but it's difficult.

You can also see the struggle Sharath is having as a man who has inherited this legacy. As men do (people really but especially men), he is trying to put his stamp on the way things are done. He's also trying to cope with the shear number of students who are coming through and their demands (not to mention the fact that some idolise him). He's struggling with his own stuff.

So, there's a lot of "stuff" flying around at the moment. People going through a number of different processes. It will settle down. Sharath will either grow into the role, or someone else (Saraswati?) will take over. It will be interesting to see how it will unfold. But it is definitely a time of transition. Made worse by the fact that there is little else to talk about here...people will do what people do. Some are just more dramatic than others. Luckily I'm not around those.

I've started processing my own stuff as well. I felt very lonely today. I felt that I had to distance myself from these conversations so I went to breakfast by myself at Alias and met a very handsome man named Darragh. Very intelligent as well. originally from Ireland but grew up in the US. Yoga teacher and personal trainer by profession he came to India to study Ashtanga at the shala. I don’t know what happened but he said he “retired” from Ashtanga and is now studying another form of yoga (not to be found in the west). Not Hatha, I don’t really know what it is. But they do it in groups of 3 only and they do it for 6 hours a day. I loved his energy though. Very clear, very centred. We talked about our mutual non-admiration for George Bush. I ran into him at Anu’s for lunch as well but didn’t get a chance to talk. Now I find myself thinking about him and hoping to run into him tomorrow. Down girl! No sex in India, this is a spiritual journey.

We also talked a lot about the shit coming up for both of us. Nothing specific, just what a dedicated yoga practice brings up. For me a lot of it is about Brad right now. I find myself missing him. Missing his companionship and his love. He’s such a sweetheart, it’s really too bad I can’t have two husbands. Part of me was perfectly happy with him. Unfortunately the part of me that want to grow and experience what I’m experiencing was not. I can’t imagine being here and still being married to him. Our phone conversations would have left me so frustrated I wouldn’t have been able to dig as deep as I’m starting to.

I think I stiff have some stuff to process about our divorce. It’s not to the surface yet, but just bubbling away. I get the sense that I’m still trying to hold it together while I’m with Peter and Jude, although they would be perfectly fine with me not. Old patterns are hard to break.

Market Day, July 10, 2008

2008-07-11T20:45:00.001-07:00

Market Day
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

Busy day today by Indian standards. No practice for me again...still on "ladies holiday." So, I slept late, woke up around 7:30, ate at Alia's (mmmm french toast), came back to rest and then went to the Green Hotel for lunch with Joseph, Jude and Peter, Marva (new house mate) and Karen (friend of Joseph's from New York). I wasn't hungry due to my french toast experience but I had some really good chinese vegetable soup and Paneer Tikka (not so great, really dry).

Afterwards I ventured downtown by myself for the first time. I asked the driver to take me to the "old market" (apparently over 1000 years old). He did, but then convinced me to let him take me to the "spicy market." He said it was just around the corner. After several corners and ending up in a very small fairly deserted alley I'd started to get a bit panicky, what had I gotten myself into? I said sternly, "where are you taking me?" and was planning to jump out of the rickshaw and make a run for the main street. He just turned around and said, "There madam, spicy market."

I turned around and sure enough, there was an entrance to a market right behind me and spicy it was. I was one big spice market...pretty interesting. I didn't buy anything but did take some pics.

Then he insisted on leading me into this house. It was dark and small and again I started to wonder what I'd gotten myself into. A man greeted me and took me past a woman rolling incense. He explained the process and then led me into a really long, narrow room with all sorts of vials. Apparently this business makes essential oils and has been in his family for over 150 years. He showed me all sorts of oils and explained their purposes. I ended up buying a small vial of water lilly to keep the mosquitoes away.

Finally after my hour long detour I managed to convince my driver to take me to the market. I didn't buy anything but got lots of interesting pics.

My ultimate destination was a shop at the end of the market that sells little brass deities. I couldn't find what I was looking for so ended up walking really slowly down a main road that ran parallel to the market. I kept getting accosted by vendors wanting to sell me anything from really bright bracelets to wooden flutes. They get you talking by asking what country you're from. I managed to ignore almost everyone but I succumbed to a guy wanting to exchange NZ dollars for rupees. He said he didn't have any money and pulled out this HUGE bucket of foreign coins. I gave him 70 rupees for $2. He definitely got a good deal and I got to do a good deed.

I did manage to find a headset for my laptop. Have yet to try it to see if it works though. I finally made it back to KR Circle (right in the centre of town) and got a great picture of a cow at a cross walk.) I walked about 1/2 mile up Devaraj Road to Badsha's for my fitting.

The tailor didn't have everything ready for me to try, but what he did was wonderful!!! He's made this beautiful linen jacket with silver embroidery and he top stitched it with silver thread. He also did two pairs of silk pants, a silk top and a little silk vest. Absolutely gorgeous! I'll pick those up on Tuesday and try the rest on then.

Home around 7:30, and bed after watching another DVD.

View from my roof, July 9, 2008

2008-07-09T22:58:00.001-07:00

View from my roof
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

Pics of Chez Mr. Joseph

Some days I love India and some days I hate it. This is one of those days I love it. All the sights, the colours, the activity. It’s invigorating. Probably because I slept for 10 hours last night and felt so energetic when I woke up.

I woke up at my usual 5AM and discovered my period had finally come (I’ve thought it would for the last week). That means “ladies holiday” for me. I slept for another 2 1/2 hours!

Breakfast at Nalpak. James wasn’t there. He had a death in the family. Pongol and a dosa. Then off to the Sri Rama Krishna ashram bookstore to get the copy of the Bhagavad Gita that Laksmish wanted us to get for chanting class. I raced to Sean’s for a chiropractic adjustment and then lunch at Anus and then I headed off to the grocery store for supplies.

A word about Sean. How incredibly synchronistic to meet Alia at breakfast that day and mention my back. Without her I may never have realised Sean exists. He’s a wonderful chiropractor...one of the best I’ve had. And so loving and passionate about both yoga and chiropractic. Incredibly handsome as well. Too bad he’s married... That’s what I want, an Ashtanga practicing, handsome chiropractor. One that’s loving, kind, ambitious and wants to create something in the world.

We spent the afternoon on the computer and then I headed off to chanting class. I’m learning the opening Ashtanga prayer with proper sanskrit pronounciation. We’re also chanting the yoga sutras and some other prayers we’ve yet to be told what they are.

After chanting I walked with Kelly, the Canadian actuary over to Anus for a banana, chocolate, date, fig and almond smoothie. Just what I needed for dinner.

I met a girl named Una there (Irish lass) that is leaving on August 1. This may be another synchronistic event. She lives in what looks to be a brand new house across the road from Josephs. She’s only paying 7000 rupees (about $240) a month for a double bedroom and shared bath. They also have a sitting room and small kitchen. She’s taking me there tomorrow. Might be perfect as I’ve almost certainly decided to stay for another 2 months. Why not? I may never have this opportunity again (or take advantage of the opportunity). I can use August and September to work with my coach and develop my business plan. Hmmm, so much to think about.

I’m sleeping much better and really feel like I’m settling in. The decision to stay seems right. Scary, but right. I’m just not sure what twists and turns my life is to take now, but I feel like I’m on the right path.

Shopping Excursion in KR Circle, July 8, 2008

2008-07-08T07:50:00.001-07:00

Man Walking Across KR Circle
Originally uploaded by kim.smith61

I know I'm starting to acclimate. I was walking out of the Shala this morning and I saw a boy with a monkey on his back and I didn't even look twice. You see so many strange things here in India. I'm starting to take more pics now and will post them on Flick hopefully. Still working out the bugs.

Busy day today. Sharath (Guruji's Grandson) is back from Hong Kong and helped Saraswati with the morning Mysore practices. I was a bit nervous with Sharath there. He has no hesitation in telling people to stop their practice if they can't do a pose. But I did fine and he even helped me get into Supta Kurmasana. I got into Gaba Pindansana by myself (but couldn't roll).

I had no energy though. Don't think I'm eating enough for dinners. I rectified that by having fruit, then hummus on veggies, then some of Jude's Pongol (much better than Nalpak's) and some black sesame crackers she got from Thailand. Good stuff.

Anyway, I rested after practice and then went out to Sandhya's house with Jude, Peter, Joseph, the Scott's and a few other older students. The food was good, mostly veggies and rice.

Afterwards we went to KR Circle, dead smack in the centre of town. Peter wanted to make a dentist appointment (really good, really cheap dental work) they wanted to go to another Badshaw's for more silks to make cushions for their home. We had a great time as usual looking at the beautiful silks. Then Jude and I went onto a store called Rashinka's. We weren't impressed. They're quality was not nearly as good as Badshaw's and it was dumpy.

The walk there and back was interesting and I got some great pics.

Afterward we worked on our respective computers and talked. It's almost time for bed now and I still have to learn the closing Ashtanga prayer for my 5:30 chanting class tomorrow.

July 6, 2008

2008-07-06T04:19:00.000-07:00

Pics: Yoga Shala and Pattabhi Jois' family's house, Coconut Stand (great electrolytes), Rickshaw Drivers, Peter and Jude at Nalpak.

Lazy day today. Did the led practice at 6:15 and the energy was really heavy. It felt like we were swimming through jelly. Jude and Peter had breakfast plans with an Indian family they know so I was on my own. Tried Santosha's for the first time. Really good. I had been craving eggs and had an omelette and a piece of toast with hummus, tomato and cucumber on it. Felt nice and healthy. Met some new people; an anti trust lawyer from Sweden named Eva, an actuary from the states but living in Ireland named Kelly and another American who lives here now named John. I think he just does yoga.

Came back and took a nap and went to Nalpak for lunch with Peter and Jude. Walked back and took a few pics (my first in India). Tonight I plan to read until the inevitable power cut and then maybe watch a movie.

More Shopping, July 5, 2008

2008-07-05T04:22:00.001-07:00

Goodness, I’m exhausted! Rest day today (Saturday). Met James for Pongol at Nalpak with Peter and Jude and then Jude and I went back to the Southern Star, she to pay her bill, me to buy more shawls (mostly for pressies, but couldn’t resist another for myself.) I also bought two table runners and a gorgeous silk rug.

After that we went to Fab India where they have ready to wear and I bought a couple of pairs of pants, a skirt and three tops.

Picked Peter up for lunch and they took me to Anu’s Bamboo Hut, right around the corner. GREAT food. Lots of fresh veggies and some really nice curry type stuff. Good roti’s too and I finished it off with both a mango smoothie AND banana custard. Mmmmmm.

I met this delightful couple named Alia and Bruno and their two sons, Darjeeling and (crap I can’t remember, it’s the Hawaiian word for ocean). Their French, met in the US and came here for her to study yoga and to raise their kids for awhile. Better place than New York. They’ve bought a breakfast cafe. He’s a surfer so they’re actually thinking about moving to Aussie or NZ. The best news is that they know of a chiropractor and gave me his number. I will call for an appointment.

After lunch I had a little adventure. I went back to Nalpak or rather the grocer next door to pick up some supplies for the house. Not only food but mossie repellent (they are eating me alive and carry Dengue fever so I’m a bit concerned about being bitten). I also got a torch (flashlight) so that I can see the money if I take a rickshaw back after dark (I couldn’t last time, God knows how much I ended giving him) and a spray bottle to contain filtered water so I can wash my face more easily. I decided to walk back (it’s only about 1/2 mile) but in the heat and dust very exhausting! On the way I saw a pretty skirt for about $7 and bought that and two tops for about $1 each. Super cheap!

Came home, washed the fruit and now I’m going to take a nap!

First Led Practice, July 4, 2008

2008-07-04T19:21:00.000-07:00

Happy 4th of July! No one much cares here though. Up at 4AM (3:30 for me again) for meditation and pre-practice and then down to the shala by 5:45. Fridays and Sundays are led classes where they take you in two massive groups (latecomers had to be on stage or in the foyer). Saraswati counts you through the entire practice and everyone flows together. It was slower than I’d expected, but the counts weren’t at my own rhythm so it was a bit stressful. Plus the fact that I was still getting over food poisoning. I had a lot more energy than I’d expected. Unfortunately I seem to have tweeked my lower back. At first I thought it was my sacrum, but I've since determined it's probably good ole L5, that I always have problems with. This is on the other side than the one that normally bothers me. I'll have to watch that.

Breakfast was at the Southern Star. This wonderful (felt like civilisation again) hotel that appears out of no where. Buffet was fairly typical western, with a few Indian dishes thrown in. We met John and Lucy Scott. John is a senior teacher most known for teaching Sting and Trudi Styler as well as Madonna. He’s a Kiwi that lived in London for years. He and Lucy have come back to NZ and have a shala in Nelson. I’ve taken two of John’s workshops before.

After Breakfast Jude introduced me to yet another shop where I bought two beautiful pashminas and some cushions for my bed.

Lazy afternoon talking to Isla and Bill and Tina, two friends of Jude and Peters. Bill is from NZ and met Tina here awhile back. She’s from Sweden and they both live there now.

I went down to the shala to register for a chanting class and a yoga sutra class and Jude and Peter went out for a light supper.

We were going to watch a movie tonight but the power went out (not unusual) and sat around talking. Came back on around 8:30 but we couldn’t get the DVD to work so I’m off to bed.

I’m feeling more comfortable getting around by myself and starting to recognise some landmarks. I can’t be outside of Joseph’s house for too long as it’s still a bit overwhelming. The traffic, the noise, the filth, people everywhere.

That and, since I’m not doing anything really I really feel the affects of the practice working on my nervous system. My nerves felt extremely jangly all afternoon. Jude’s advice: let the practice work and just go with it. New experience for me.

Happy Birthday, July 3, 2008

2008-07-04T19:20:00.001-07:00

Happy birthday to me! Woke up feeling pretty good. Small breakfast brought back by Jude and Peter. It was a moon day (new) anyway so no practice. I spent the day talking to Jude. Had a wonderful conversation about all sorts of things. She’s so knowledgeable about all things India having been coming here for so long. Especially cooking. She’s a great cook and I’ve been pumping her for as much knowledge on Indian cuisine as I can.

Towards the end of the day we sat out on our front patio. Lovely space. Early to bed. Early practice tomorrow.

2nd Practice, 1st Trip to Doctor, July 2, 2008

2008-07-04T19:15:00.000-07:00

July 2, 2008

Same routine as the day before; up at 5AM (well 2:30 in my case...again couldn’t sleep), morning meditation and pre-practice warm up and at the shala before 7.

This morning’s practice rocked!!!! I was just starting my seated poses and Saraswati came up to me pointed her finger and said, “You need help you ask!”. “Thank you I will,” I replied and ask I did. She got me into Supta Kurmasana, (which I can do if the teacher brings my arms together behind my back so that I can grasp my fingers). What I didn’t plan on was her putting (forcing really) my arms between my legs in Gaba Pindansana. I’d never done that before (fat thighs) and it was bloody hard. I can get one and not the other. Even with spraying myself down with the water bottle I could only get it part of the way. She was adjusting someone else and kept saying, “keep pushing, keep pushing,” but I was getting exhausted!!! Finally she came over and yanked me through and then spun me around a few times and told me to go up into Kukkutasana, which I did for a breath or two and then collapsed laughing. The good news is so was she!

If you can believe it I sweat even more than I had the day before and just felt great.

We went for Pongol (rice and dal / lentils) and dosas (fermented rice and another type of Dal that apparently has more protein than meat) made into a pancake. I had no appetite at all! That should have tipped me off that something was wrong, but being in India and doing this intense practice I just chalked it up to that. After breakfast I braved my first rickshaw ride by myself and met Jude and Peter at Jame’s house.

James is a friend of theirs that they met one time when they came and lived across the street from him. He’s British, from an aristocratic family, and came to India when he was 21, over 30 years ago to study meditation. He never left. I met him last December when he was in NZ. He sold some land in the UK and had to stay away from India for a year to avoid paying taxes on the very considerable gain. He spent 4 months in Canada, 4 months somewhere I can’t remember and 4 months in NZ. He’s a fascinating man and knows more about American politics (and loves talking about same) than I do. Anyway, we stopped by so I could say hello and he started warning me to watch what I ate and drank and started describing the symptoms I could get if I ate and drank the wrong thing. Little did he know that I had just started to feel those symptoms! Nausea, diarrhea, fever...they all hit the hour I spent talking to he and his wife Sandhya. I came home and went straight to bed. Well actually the couch. I slept for most of the day.

Joseph came over and suggested I see Dr. Kumar, the local Ayurvedic doctor. He made the appointment and called the rickshaw driver. Peter accompanied me. Dr. Kumar is wonderful. Lovely man with clear eyes and great energy. He took my pulse, looked at my tongue, asked me questions about my symptoms, gave me two kinds of pills and sent me off with a prescription for another kind of pills and some sickeningly sweet kind of liquid. He said I should start feeling better the next day.

I spent the night on two sets of cushions on the living room floor in case I needed to get help fast. It was actually a really good night’s sleep and I woke up the next day feeling much, much better.

First Practice, July 1, 2008

2008-07-04T05:50:00.000-07:00

July 1, 2008

Woke up at 3AM. Wide awake and too excited and nervous to sleep. My alarm rang at 5 and I had a quick shower. I have the only tub in the house and one of the few tubs in Mysore, apparently. Not that I’d want to actually bathe in said tub, it’s pretty dingy. The downside is no shower. :( Well, that’s not quite true. There is a shower hose, just no curtain and you have to hold the hose yourself. But it gets better. Every other day or so you have to fill the tank above the house with water by flipping a switch. You know it’s filled when it starts to overflow. If you catch it on time it only starts to run on the roof. If it goes on for much longer it starts to flood the driveway. Efficient system. :)

To heat the water for the house you have to flip the switch in my bathroom. I’m lucky because I’m close to the tank I get hot water right away and I can go 2 days without turning it on. The girls downstairs use a big, common shower and it takes forever for them to get hot water. Peter and Jude never get hot water and use a bucket system where they fill a big clay pot with water and heat it with a big metal prong. Once hut they sit on the toilet and throw buckets of water on themselves. Jude swears by it, but I prefer my shower, no matter how rudimentary it is.

After my shower I joined Jude for a pre-practice meditation and warm-up. Jude regularly does an hour of warm up poses before her 2 hours of yoga. Great idea when you have the time; which I do now so I joined her. Made all the difference in opening my hips. Wonderful!!!

A few minutes before 7 we wandered down to the shala and, to our surprise were able to walk right in. They have a system in Mysore where they start a class at 5AM and unless you’re given that as a start time you show up at your designated time, wait for someone to leave and the yell, “one more” and quickly point to a place. Sometimes the mats are so close that you’re not sure where they are pointing to. Mat real estate is pretty dear in Mysore. But, not a problem. There were places available when we started.

I was so overwhelmed by actually being in Mysore that all I could think of during the sun salutations was, “Oh my God, I’m actually in Mysore!” I sailed through those, probably too fast and couldn’t focus. Then I settled down and had an amazing practice!

Guruji is getting too old to teach regularly and Sharath, his grandson and successor is at a yoga conference in Hong Kong until the 8th so Saraswati is handling the whole class until then. She, herself is in her late 60’s (Guruji turns 93 in 2 weeks) and it’s a big job, but she has an eagle eye and doesn’t miss a thing!

I sweat like I’ve not sweat since practicing in Austin during August and was able to come out of Bhuja Pindasana for the 2nd time without putting my feet back on the floor (the first time was in Thailand). I also went into Setu Bandhanasana for the first time ever as I felt that my neck was strong enough to support it. Peter has since advised me against doing this so I’m now doing an assisted version keeping my hands on the floor next to my neck. I also did Mathsyasana and Uttana Padasana for the first time ever. First time my core muscles were strong enough to handle it.

Peter and I did breakfast again at Tina’s and I had a repeat of what I had the day before. Lunch was at the other Tina’s (one only does breakfast and the other lunch / dinner). Pretty unsatisfying.

We ended up going into the city for Jude to get another cell phone as hers seemed to be broken. She wanted to show me her favourite silk place. Boy was that a mistake. I spent way too much money on custom made pants (2 pairs), a skirt, a linen jacket, two silk jackets and three cotton shirts. All mix and match though and cheap, cheap cheap compared to other prices. We had a great time. They served us Chai (almost as good as Jude’s) and showed us every piece of silk in the place. It was a bit overwhelming, but oh so beautiful!!!

Our rickshaw ride back...let me digress as I don’t think I’ve property explained rickshaws. Rickshaws are open air, three wheeled vehicles where the driver sits on one seat in the middle in front and the passengers (three easily, four at a stretch, but I’ve seen many more than that) sit in the back and hang on for dear life. No seat belts, flat bench seat. You have to convince them to turn the meter on for westerners. They will say, “No Madam, my prices are very reasonable.” Don’t you believe them. Be insistent on meter usage or once you get to know distances negotiate a price ahead of time.

Anyway, after 6:30 the place comes alive. Everyone shuts down in the afternoon to sleep and avoid the heat but shops and Doctors (more on that later) open back up between 4 and 6 and go quite late. Because of all the activity the pollution get really, really bad. Jude and I had to cover our faces with scarves. CRAZY.

1st Day in Mysore, June 30, 2008

2008-07-04T02:20:00.000-07:00

June 30, 2008

I woke up at 3:30 this morning. I thought it was 5:00. My travel alarm was set for Thai time and my alarm still set to wake me up for departure from Phuket. Hang on you say...why did it wake me up at 3:30 if the alarm was set for 5:00? Yes indeed, Mysore is in one of those crazy time zones that changes by the 1/2 hour and not a full hour so we’re an hour and a half behind Thailand.

Anyway, I didn’t cotton onto that fact until I lay awake for almost 2 hours waiting for the sun to rise and the household to wake up. It was lovely though, listening to the rain in the coconut palms and the blissful quiet.

No one actually got up until 7AM local time so I laid there for awhile too excited to sleep. My house mates include Peter and Jude, my friends and yoga teachers from NZ and two single women, Isla from the UK and Rachel from Houston (originally Connecticut). Both much younger than the three of us but lovely. Rachel had my room for the previous two months but I’d booked before she did so I booted her out of it.

My room is indeed on the roof. It’s not as nice in my opinion as Peter and Jude’s but it’s more private. I have coconut palms growing outside and I can see the whole neighborhood as ours is the tallest house in the neighborhood.

Rachel, Peter, Jude and I went to breakfast after Rachel’s practice. Tina’s kitchen. We had a wonderful fruit salad of the best mangos I’ve ever had along with papaya, banana and figs, fenugreek roti and a veggie omelette.

After breakfast Jude and I went shopping for fruit and veggies for our dinner (heavy breakfasts and lunches with barely any dinner is the routine here). I then did some laundry. The have two young girls here that come in to clean every day and they do laundry as well, but apparently in India they still beat the clothes against rocks so anything you don’t want pummeled to death you do yourself.

For lunch we went to Nalpak which is traditional Indian and apparently off the beaten track for most western yoga students. I can’t even tell you what we ate but it was delicious! Rice and some sort of unleavened break with a number of different sauces and soups.

At 4:30, excited as I could be, I walked down to the yoga shala (school) with Jude and paid my money to practice for the month. It was actually pretty uneventful. Guruji was in his office but was with someone. His daughter, Saraswati, was there and asked me if I’d sent in my form. I held my breath and said yes, in February. This is what I was afraid of; I’ve come all this way and they won’t have received my form. You send it via snail mail and they never acknowledge whether or not they’ve received it. For the last few days I’ve been coming up with different scenarios of what I could do now that I’m in India if I can’t practice. Peter and Jude told me it would be fine, that they’d vouch for me.

Lo and behold, not to worry, they didn’t even check. They just took my money (a big wad of rupees) filled out an ID card and off we went.

Fruit salad for dinner.

Holy Cow Toto, We're not in Kansas anymore, Bangalore to Mysore, 29 June 2008

2008-06-30T03:31:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Bangalore right on time. The flight (Jet Airways) was surprisingly wonderful. Nice plane, great service and a vegetarian sandwich on the whitest of white bread along with some sort of yummy ginger spice bread. The Bangalore airport is a new one (opened last month) and is beautiful! Very clean and modern. Incredibly my luggage arrived right away. Even more incredibly my driver was right out front holding a sign with my name on it. That’s now 13 flights, 1 greyhound bus trip and one 4 hour car trip in the last month with out a hitch!

No hitch, but OMG!!! The car ride to get here. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes. There are lines on the roads but no one seems to pay them any mind. Cars, trucks, busses and motorised rickshaws, motor scooters and pedestrians all sort of enter into this dance to compete for space. I say dance because it doesn’t seem aggressive. When you need to get some place you just go there and magically traffic parts to allow you access. There is a constant beeping of horns and flashing of lights at night and I’m not sure if that’s to signify where you want to go or signal your presence in one particular space. Anyway, it’s crazy to say the least. I just had to let go and trust that my driver knew what he was doing. I didn’t see any accidents.

What I did see amazed me though! People everywhere. Well, that’s to be expected. It’s India after all, one of the most populated countries on earth. But where these people turned up was mind boggling. I saw this young woman dressed in the most beautiful sari just walking down the motorway. I didn’t notice an exit or really any destination for at least a kilometre so God knows where she was going. And there were groups of men, presumably trying to hitchhike, that would just walk out onto the motorway and try to stop the cars.

And the motor bikes. Yikes!!! Everywhere, going all sorts of directions. Men driving, women riding behind them, side saddle in their saris hanging onto who knows what. Some were carrying babies in their laps and on more than one occasion I saw a family of 4!!! On one motor bike!!!!!! Dad driving, Mom in back sometimes perched on the metal rail at the back of the seat and the kids either on the gas tank or between Mom and Dad. Unbelievable. I was amazed, I just had to take it all in.

Then, of course, as if in a movie a cow walks across the road. Why did the cow cross the road? God knows, but in India they’re sacred so if a cow wants to cross the road traffic parts and lets them. It all got to be too much after a couple of hours when I saw the three camels. No wise men, just camels. It had gotten dark by then so I couldn’t see clearly but it looked as if they were carrying something. I think that put me into sensory overload and I couldn’t keep my eyes open so despite the traffic and the constant swerving in and out, despite the incessant honking of horns, despite the pollution (yes the driver had the windows open during the entire trip) I fell asleep! I woke up in Mysore.

On a tree lined, relatively quiet (I’m told exceptionally quiet for India) neighborhood. My driver picked up someone named Ganesh’s boy (I briefly met Ganesh, he runs the local Internet cafe and arranged for my driver) and they took me to Mr. Chez Joseph, my abode for the next month.

I have the rooftop bungalow. It sounds nicer and more romantic than it actually is. More on that tomorrow when I’m more awake.

Peter and Jude waited up for me and made me a cup of tea and shared some biscuits with me. That was incredibly sweet. They’ve been here for a few days but Peter has been sick and Jude is on “ladies holiday” so they haven’t started their practice yet. Tomorrow they will take me down to meet Guruji and hopefully I can begin the next day....

Wow, I’m here! I’m really here.

Flight to Chennai, India, 29 June 2008

2008-06-30T03:29:00.000-07:00

It’s been awhile since I’ve been this far outside my comfort zone. I woke up this morning at 4:45 for a 5:45 pickup to the airport. They were late, but I made it on time. I managed to check my bags straight through to Chennai (Madras) on Thai and got my boarding pass for both flights even though I am on 2 separate itineraries.

They warned me about the heat (no big deal for me), they warned me about the pollution (a bit worried about asthma), they warned me about the dirt (I’ve travelled to third world countries before, I can handle it) what they didn’t warn me about was the body odour. OMG, it’s overwhelming among men! Now, I like a musky smell, but this is never used deodorant kind of a smell. I noticed it as soon as I got to the gate for my flight to Chennai. I managed to sit away from the most flagrant offenders and boarded without problem.

Then I looked around. I saw exactly 3 white faces. Wow, I hadn’t expected this.

The guy that I sat next to barely spoke English but I did find out that this was his first airplane flight (or more probably the return to his first one since he was definitely Indian and not Thai). I had the window seat but he kept craning his neck to see outside. I finally asked him if he’d like to switch and I got the first of what I’m certain will be many head bobs over the next month. If you’re not familiar with the head bob, it’s a particularly Indian tradition where their heads look a bit like those old bobble dolls that people used to have. Not yes, not no. I’m really not sure it has a meaning. I’m yet to find out. Anyway, I took this particular bob to be a yes and switched.

He was determined to milk the free food and drink available on an international flight to the max ordering first a beer and wine together and then at last count two additional beers and a wine. He also asked for another dinner (which he didn’t get).

The food wasn’t bad. I had veggie curry, just spicy enough. The roti was good until it turned cold, then not so much.

We landed in Chennai and whoa! There are armed security guards with machine guns at every entrance (not sure what that’s about yet) and they checked our boarding pass as we were LEAVING the jet way. I’m not sure what they were checking for. You obviously had to have your boarding pass to get on the plane and I didn’t see anyway someone could get on the jet way other than from the plane sooo...

The lines at passport control were outrageously long and slow. The gentleman in front of me asked if I was a foreigner (ya think?) and told me I could go to the line without any queue. Okay....off I went like a wide eyed foreigner only to be met by a stern looking man asking me what I was doing here; he explained to me that this wasn’t a queue. I said innocently, “but sir, the gentleman in line told me to step out and come here.” He laughed (I would have too) but a kindly older gentleman took pity on me (older men have always loved me, you would think that my appeal would diminish as I myself approach 50 but it still seems to be working for me). He asked to see my passport, which I handed to the younger man that stopped me. The younger man looked at it, laughed again and said, “New Zealand”. I don’t know if he was laughing at the country, at the fact that I certainly don’t sound like a Kiwi, or at the fact that I was trying to pull one over. Whatever it was I didn’t care because by this time the older man was motioning me forward. He checked my documentation, gave me a quick smile and threw my passport back at me (to save face with the younger guys?)

I’m quickly realising that India is not a country for those of us with weak bladders who have to constantly pee. As soon as I got off the plane, and before the passport control incident, I headed straight to the bathroom. There were two stall; one marked EWC and one marked IWC. Whatever could that mean? Then I saw the one marked IWC open and quickly figured it out seeing nothing inside but a hole in the ground. Ahhh, Indian Water Closet. I’d run into the hole in the ground scenario in a much cleaner airport bathroom in Singapore and declined to use it, I certainly was not going to use this much dirtier one...I opted to wait until the European Water Closet door swung open. Then there was the problem of what to do about my hand luggage. After several attempts to wedge them in with me a lovely lady took pity on me and offered to watch it outside. Relying on the kindness of strangers and the fact she had an innocent looking face I left her with my roller bag and backpack containing my American passport, all of my itineraries, my one paper ticket (one of the last to be issued, I should scrapbook it), all of my jewelry and all of my worldly documents which I am carrying around the world with me so that I can establish my identity as soon as I arrive in Sydney in August. The quickest pee I could muster (never figured out how to flush the damn toilet, even tried to throw a bucked of water in it from the big tub next to it) and I was out the door. Relief (in more ways than one), the kind lady and my bags were still there. I’ve resolved not to drink water again until I get to Bangalore when my driver can watch my bags for me.

My bags came off the carousel without a hitch and I was off to find the domestic terminal (customs didn’t even X ray my bags). I’m traveling with a gazillion vitamins which I am taking in lieu of the shots recommended (I’m of the no vaccination persuasion) and I keep expecting to get stopped for drug trafficking, but so far no one’s batted an eye lash.

I still haven’t been able to get any rupees as the only ATM I’ve found requires going up steps...and now I have all 4 bags I’m traveling with. That’s okay, the only thing I’d buy is water and I’m not going there!!!

After passing through two security checkpoints to get to the domestic terminal, re-arranging my luggage so that my roller bag weighs less than 7 kg and pre-screening my check in I stood in line for 15 minutes at the Jet Airways counter only to be told that it was too early to check into my 5:10 flight...it was only 1:45. I was told the luggage would get mixed up...that doesn’t sound good. Okay, so I sit here in what can only be described as the grungiest airport terminal I’ve ever been in on a seat covered in filth waiting for 3PM. Waiting for what? I’m sure to sit in an equally filthy chair on the other side of security. I’m so going to need a shower when I get to Mysore!

More Phuket Pics

2008-06-30T01:54:00.001-07:00

Pics: Permanent residents and Crazy morning fruit basket!

Phuket, Thailand, June 28, 2008

2008-06-30T01:25:00.001-07:00

Pics: Entrance, Reception area with Thai musicians, View from my room, View from reception, Sunset from reception.

I'm sitting in the bar at the Dusit Thani Laguna in Phuket. I'm overlooking the ocean and what promises to be a beautiful sunset. (Aren't they all? It's Phuket after all).

My goal in coming to Phuket was twofold. First of all, my yoga teachers in Auckland recommended going somewhere to decompress between the frenetic pace of my real life (as well as the three weeks in the States) and India. Thailand is on the way so, why not Thailand? Secondly to start my yoga practice again after not practicing for 3 weeks in the States (bar three partial ones)

I have wanted to come to Phuket specifically for about 15 years or so. My friends Dick and Jeri from Dallas came here on their pre-honeymoon (Dick's travel schedule wouldn't allow them to take a honeymoon after they got married). Jeri described the beauty of Phuket and the fact that she was so relaxed their that she slept for 24 hours straight (much to Dick's chagrin).

If that wasn't enough, Spalding Gray's (may he rest in peace) description of it in "Swimming to Cambodia" mesmerised me. I was hooked and it was a must see.

I can say I haven't been disappointed, but it also hasn't lived up to those unrealistic expectations set 15 years ago. I'm older, more experienced and have certainly seen more of the world than I had then. I've also lived in New Zealand for the last 6 years and, after you've done that, beauty is relative. It's hard to compete with what I think is the most beautiful country on earth. What it does have that NZ does not, however is heat...lots of it and I love it!!! I almost titled this post "it rocks to be hot" or "I was born to be warm". Both are true. I've been sweating since I arrived and I love it. Right now it's a comfortable 80 degrees as the sun sets over the Andaman Sea. There's a warm breeze blowing and I'm in a sleeveless dress.

I went swimming today in said sea and it was like bath water. No wet suits needed here! :)

The Thai people are nice and accommodating (although they don't compare to Fijians in my opinion).

The hotel is nice. I'm staying in a quieter resort off of the beaten path. It's part of a complex of 5 resorts and you can use the facilities in each. I've been touring and taking advantage of some of these, but I think the Dusit where I'm staying is the nicest. It's not the flashist, but I think it's the most authentic Thai with the most beautiful view of the ocean. My room is about a 50 meter walk to the sea and I hear the waves crashing on the beach when I have my door open, which isn't often because the windows steam up if I do.

Since I arrived I've had 1 - 2 massages a day (some in the spa, some by locals on the beach or in town). I've also had a manicure and pedicure. I've napped most days, shopped in Patong (just a big tourist, shopping, night clubbing mecca), had great food and really enjoyed the atmosphere.

I've kept my promise to myself and have done a full yoga practice each day, trying to get my fitness back up. I've worked out my sore muscles through massage and it's been wonderful.

I did get some shopping in; buying 4 pillow cases, a beautiful oil painting of a circle with half of the Buddha's face and a carved Buddha in some kind of green stone (I can hear Brad groaning from 1/2 way across the world). The stone Buddha is the first piece for my alter when I get back home. I plan to add some Hindu deities when I get to India.

Well, off to dinner. The hotel has 5 restaurants, including a wonderful Italian one. Tonight is Thai, however at a beautiful pavillion.

Waiting to Board Flight to Bankok, June 23, 2008

2008-06-23T21:48:00.000-07:00

I'm sitting in the Star Alliance Lounge of LAX. This has to be the worst international airport in the world with the worst premium lounge. The chairs are hard, the carpet worn. Bad sushi, good strawberries. I happen to be enjoying a glass of Bayley's over ice (free of charge) at the moment though. Not a bad way to spend my time.

My experience in business class during my flight from Auckland to SFO 3 weeks ago made me hunger for more. Especially after I found out that the flight from LAX to Bankok was 17.5 hours. OMG! That means when I hit the 12 hour mark, when I would normally be landing in Auckland I have another 5.5 hours left!!!! That's longer than the flight from Boston to SFO!!!! When I checked in I got a wild hair and asked about an upgrade to Premium Economy...a couple hundred dollars. Not bad, "I'll take it...what do you get with Premium Economy"? A bit more let room, but the same small seat. Hmmmm, then I started thinking about laying in an actual bed and having loads of room and wonderful service. "How much for Business Class?" I enquired...a bit more that a couple of hundred but before I knew it I was whipping out my credit card. Gives new meaning to "whip it on" (Tony Robbins joke).

The course was great. I'll write more about that when I'm not so tired. The longer I sit here the more tired I get. I'm really just typing to keep from falling asleep. I'm afraid of missing my flight.

Anyway, the course was great. Got lots of new ideas and signed up for a coach. It's the next step, really. I need someone to kick me in the butt and get me to implement all of these ideas floating around my head.

Leadership was awesome! I loved working with the participants. From explaining parts of their financial plan to helping them decide what's next for them to pouring them water. They really touched my heart. I could get addicted to this stuff (actually I plan to).

Ran out of the hotel at 3PM to catch a cab to the airport only to find out that my 5PM flight was delayed to 6:40 due to the wild fires in Big Sur (there are wild fires in Big Sur? news to me, I've been out of touch for awhile). The good news is that the 3:30 flight had been delayed to 5:30 and was almost empty. I got on that and, miraculously so did my luggage so I made it in plenty of time. Talked to a very nice and attractive man in line as well...unfortunately we didn't get to sit together.

Ode to Whole Foods Market

2008-06-19T11:07:00.000-07:00

Sandi asked me what I missed about living in the States last night. I had to think (and am really not sure I ever answered her). Mexican food? Yes, but then the availability of good Mexican food in Texas resulted in 47 lbs / 22 kg's of unwanted weight. Bed Bath and Beyond? I used to miss that but not so much any more. Friends and family yes, but I see them often. TV shows? Movies? Get all I want to watch overseas.

Then it hit me today. Whole Foods Market. Is Whole Foods the strictly organic store that it was when it started out in Austin, Texas in the 1970's? No. Sometimes you have to search for organic fruits and veggies (depending on the season...but then eating local and eating in season is a whole other discussion isn't it?). Is it accessible to the everyday family allowing Joe Lunchbox to feed his family with natural, organic and wholesome foods? No, their price point is certainly at the high end. Has it been corrupted, to some extent by corporate greed? Almost certainly. But I think it's done well to stand true to it's founding philosophies of caring for people and caring for the planet in the midst of the age of technology and shareholder profits. You get the feeling that they care. The San Francisco store that I've just visited is selling recyclable bags to feed the hungry. When I asked one of the clerks for the location of plastic, resealable bags he showed me, he didn't just blindly point the way. And when I went to check out another clerk grabbed me and opened another register for me so I didn't have to wait in line.

But more than service, shopping at Whole Foods is an experience. You feel good about yourself when you're walking through the produce section full (in this case a lot) of organic fruits and veggies gleaming seductively in all colors of the rainbow. You feel proud of yourself for choosing the sprouted bread from the cooler with a sign above it telling the story of the woman who makes these breads, instead of that processed stuff from a sterile metal rack showing nothing but the brand name, that's so readily available in the more mundane supermarkets. And you feel downright triumphant when you choose a braised kale and seaweed salad to go with your turkey panini (ahhh, turkey sandwiches...now that's an ode unto itself).

My trip there was complete with a few bottles of Naked Superfood (sorry Brad, I'm no longer an Odwalla drinker...I've discoverd the joys of being Naked) and some dark chocolate covered goji berries for my sweet tooth (I've got to wean myself off of Ben and Jerry's somehow!)

Now, my fridge has been delivered to my room and all of my snacks put away to be deployed during the long Tony Robbins course days. It's time to make my way to the lobby to register for my course.

Reflections on the trip so far, 18 June 2008

2008-06-19T09:36:00.000-07:00

I’m typing this on the flight from Boston to San Francisco. First time to fly Jet Blue and I have to say I’m really impressed! I must have paid the extra $10 for “even more” leg room. 38” worth. It’s wonderful. It also puts you on the front of the plane which I like. Fast and efficient service and DirectTV with satellite radio. Listening to the 70’s channel now of course. Gerry Rafferty’s “Baker Street” right now. Reminds me of my senior year in high school. The line “Another year and you’ll be happy, just one more year and you’ll be happy, but your crying, you’re crying now.” Came out in ’79 and summed up my senior year. Hated being in Tennessee and couldn’t wait to graduate and get out.

Those sentiments certainly don’t describe my life right now though. I’m happier than I’ve ever been and having a great time on my vacation. The future is bright with lots of options and new adventures to look forward to. So exciting.

I’m rested and relaxed even though I’ve been running around like a crazy woman. It’s been great though. For those of you who have read “Eat, Pray, Love” I’ve decided I’m doing my own version. The first 3 1/2 weeks is my eating phase. Boy have I been doing that! I think I’ve had ice cream (Ben and Jerry’s of course with the exception of one day of Cold Stone on the Freedom Trail....mmmm) every day since I left San Diego. I gorged myself on cheese in Nashville with my fellow Wisconsin born and raised mother, seafood in Boston with the only woman on the planet that loves seafood more than I, my oldest and best friend Vanessa, and potatoes almost everywhere I’ve gone. New Zealand soil lacks a few minerals for growing good potatoes so I’ve been deprived for 6 years.

I’m actually doing things a little differently than the author of “Eat, Pray, Love” did in that I’m combining my eating phase with my love phase. It was really important for me to spend time with those people in my life that mean the most to me. Real, quality time and I’m so pleased I did.

My dinner with Caroline was short but oh so important to re-establish the connection after leaving Brad. Caroline is more like a mother to me than a mother-in-law and I truly hope we can remain friends post Brad. After all, Brad and I are remaining close friends, Caroline and I should be able to do the same.

Kristen’s graduation was fantastic and a bit poetic (I was at her baptism). Getting to spend time with the whole Marks clan (including Vanessa’s mom and dad) and getting to know the three girls separately was awesome.

My 24 hours with Anna was so great! We haven’t spent quality time together like that since before I got married. Our conversation never stopped. It was deep and soulful and just what I needed.

My 3 days in Boston with Vanessa was a dream come true and was 20 years in the planning. We had to wait for the kids to grow up enough so they could spare her but the timing worked out perfectly for this week with the oldest 2 being at camp.
Vanessa and Matt got married shortly after Ness and I graduated from Ohio State and they had Heather right away, then Kristen, then Robyn so travel wasn’t really an option. Add to that the fact that I moved to Boston, Texas and New Zealand and they moved to Florida, back to Ohio, Massachusetts and Michigan. A few trips to see them in the early years was followed by many years of just sporadic emails and phone calls. Luckily I started dating Brad who was from Ann Arbor in ‘99; only an hour from where Matt and Vanessa have settled over the last 12 years. Our yearly trips back to see his parents included an afternoon with the Marks’ when time would allow. But the only time we’ve been alone together since we graduated from OSU in ’88 was 17 years ago during the trip to Florida when I attended Kristen’s graduation we spent a day at Epcott Center.

Friendships like Vanessa’s are so very special and I treasure her and what she’s meant to me. I really learned how to be a good friend from my friendships with both she and Lisa, the third in our triumvirate during college. Unfortunately we’ve both lost track of Lisa but luckily we’ve kept track of each other and these last 3 days we picked up like no time had passed. We’re both a bit older and we’ve lived very different lives but love each other like sisters. It was easy and did we have fun!!!

Addendum from my hotel, the San Francisco Marriott, 19 June 2008

My friend Sandi picked me up from the airport. I haven't seen Sandi since my wedding and haven't spent any time with her really since I left Dallas in 1997. She and I got together with Brad and her old boyfriend a few times in Austin, but that's really it.

Sandi is definitely one of my most interesting friends. Highly travelled (over 100 countries and counting she said last night), she's a recovering accountant like myself. We met when we both became Board Members for the American Women's Society of CPA's. She left the corporate world in '92 and has done a number of different things including owning a pet photography studio, being a web designer, making her living as a public speaker and an author. She is a regular contributor to Intuit's newsletter, for all of you geeks out there. Oh, and she's one of a handful of women to have co-piloted a single engine plane around the world.

She's now moved to San Jose with her new boyfriend and seems to be having the time of her life. She should be, she's a happiness consultant! Check out her stuff...it's really interesting.

She and I had a great visit and started several conversations that need to be continued. Who knows maybe we can do something together professionally. We're certainly on the same page about a number of things.

The Good Life, Our day among the rich and famous in Newport Rhode Island, 17 June, 2008

2008-06-19T09:19:00.000-07:00

Pictures: Marble House, The Elms, The Breakers, Rosecliff and a pretty walkway at Rosecliff.

Tuesday turned out to be a bright day in the mid ’70’s and a perfect day for a drive to Newport to tour some mansions. Vanessa got to experience Boston traffic at its best. We were on 93 south and at a dead stop due to a tractor trailer flipping over on its side. We got off when we could and navigated our way with a fairly un-detailed map through side streets until we found an alternate way.

The mansions were all built around the turn of the 20th century and represented the best of the guilded age. High society indeed. The owners of these mansions represented the captains of industry and financiers of the time. The Vanderbilts, the Ascots and many other names that I didn’t recognise, although I certainly recognized their companies including Dominoes Sugar.

Opulence and fine living at it’s best where women were regularly expected to change into 4 - 7 outfits during the day for various activities (how they had time to actually do anything with all of that changing of clothes is beyond me!)

We got to see 4 mansions during the afternoon. The two Vanderbilt mansions: The Breakers with its outdoor loggia and incredible sea vier, wonderful fireplaces, incredible bathrooms with tubs carved out of 1 solid piece of marble and hot and cold running SALT water and Marble House with more marble than I’ve ever seen in my life! The woman who built Marble House was quite a strong personality and was one of the early suffragette movement leaders. She had china made with “Votes for Women” imprinted on them. Didn’t stop her from working her scullery maids to death or from torturing her daughter by making her wear a metal device designed to give her the “neck of a swan” in preparation for marrying her off to a British nobleman. We also saw The Elms and Rosecliff, setting to many famous movies (“The Great Gatsby” and “The Betsy”) and more famous scenes (the tango scene from “True Lies” and one of the weddings from the more recent “27 Dresses”).

After our mansion excursion we walked around the harbour where I was pleased to see a yacht flying a flag depicting red socks at half mast. My Kiwi friends and any die hard sailors will know exactly what that signifies. For the others please google Peter Blake and read all about New Zealand’s arguable most famous sailor who took the Kiwi’s to victory and one successful defense of the America’s Cup (we won’t talk about the last 2 defenses).

We felt weighted down by all of the money we were carrying around so were obligated to leave some of it in a few of the shops around the waterfront. Dinner was a fun, seaside restaurant where we both had baked, stuffed lobsters (for those of you keeping count, yes...I had 3 lobster dinners in a row). Nothing like New England lobster! After a quick trip to Ben and Jerry’s (conveniently located by our car) we drove back to Boston and narrowly escaped the gridlock that ensued after the Celtics whooped the Laker’s butts in an NBA playoff game at the Garden.

The Freedom Trail

2008-06-19T09:14:00.000-07:00

Monday was Freedom Trail Day (see below for full description). We started in the famed Boston Common at Frog Pond (where they used to dunk witches). Here's Vanessa posing with two of the newer visitors...check out the can of worms in the foreground.

More Freedom Trail

2008-06-19T09:05:00.001-07:00

Pictures: The Massachusetts State House with gold leaf dome, John Hancock's grave (first signer of the Declaration of Independence), Paul Revere's original grave and monument and King's Chapel, the oldest church in Boston and originally commissioned by the King of England. They still have services and an active congregation. Check out the pew boxes!

One if By Land, Two if By Sea...Our adventures on the Freedom Trail

2008-06-19T08:26:00.000-07:00

Pictures in order: Paul Revere's house, the Old North Church, the window that Robert Newman escaped from the Old North Church after hanging the lanterns in the steeple, the USS Constitution and the Bunker Hill Monument.

Monday was Freedom Trail day. The Freedom Trail is a 3 mile walking trail that takes you past a bunch of dead people and the places where they hung out. Why would we want to walk 3 miles to see this? It so happens that these dead people are some of the most prominent patriots in our nation’s history and these places were ground zero for some of our nation’s most important events like the revolution (where we through the bums out...the same bums I had to swear allegiance during my New Zealand citizenship ceremony).

I’ve done the Freedom Trail before, but this time it meant a lot more to me. Maybe because I’m older. Maybe because I appreciate the US more from an ex-patriot perspective. Maybe because I have a new appreciation for freedom after having suffered 7 1/2 years of tyranny under good ole “W”. Maybe all of the above. Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the graves of Paul Revere, Sam Adams (no, he’s not just a beer), Ben Franklin’s parents, Mother Goose (not a patriot but still kind of cool) and countless others whom I can’t remember but of whom I have pictures. Not only that but we saw a number of old churches including the Old North Church where someone who’s name I also cannot remember Robert Newman hung the lanterns in the steeple which launched Paul Revere’s famed midnight ride to warn the colonists of the British invasion (the one before the Beatles). They’ve recently re-discovered the window that he escaped from in the church which had been boarded up. It’s now been preserved and President Ford hung a third lantern during his administration to “light the way for world peace”. We also saw Paul Revere’s house, the USS Constitution (the world’s oldest continuously commissioned battleship), Bunker Hill and a number of other historical sites.

We ended the day by walking up and down the famed Newbury Street. I’ve always wanted to walk down this street knowing I could afford to buy something on it. Living there just after college I was always to poor to even contemplate it. I did buy one of a kind make up and jewelry bag and 2 sets of three water colors depicting Beacon Hill, the Public Garden and Newbury Street itself. One set is of these three during winter and the other during summer. Should go nicely with my already eclectic art collection.

Lunch was at an Italian bistro in the North End between Paul Revere’s house and The Old North Church. Dinner that night was at the US’ oldest continuously operating restaurant, Union Oyster House. Union Oyster House has been visited by many, many historical figures and celebraties over the years, one of the most famous of which was Daniel Webster (lawyer and dictionary fame). Mr. Webster was known for drinking a large tumbler of Brandy and water with every 1/2 dozen oysters he ate. He, apparently regularly ate 6 oyster plates...makes you wonder just how he could spell after all of those Brandies! Scallops for Vanessa and a lobster salad for me. We could barely eat it after our Cold Stone ice cream a few hours before.

More Aquarium...too many great pics to post!!!

2008-06-19T07:55:00.001-07:00

New England Aquarium, 15 June 2008

2008-06-18T05:58:00.000-07:00

One of my favourite places in Boston. Vanessa and I both got in around 1PM (her by plane me by Greyhound bus from White River Junction, VT). We stayed at Nine Zero Hotel right on the Common so after freshening up we walked across the Common and had lunch at Cheers (it would have been rude not to) and then went to the aquarium. It's just as good as ever, with a new jelly fish exhibit. Dinner at Legal Seafood, a Boston institution (lobster for me, crabcakes for Ness).

Look for Sea Dragon in bottom right corner of this pic.

Vermont's Northeast Kingdom, 12 - 15 June 2008

2008-06-16T05:50:00.000-07:00

I greeted my Aunt Norma and Uncle Jim at the Manchester airport Thursday afternoon. My uncle took one look at me and said, “are you wearing eye shadow under your eyes or are the dark circles from being tired?” Hmmmm....was my crazy, hectic lifestyle of the last few weeks really becoming that obvious on my face or were my other friends and family members just being too kind to mention the black rings under my eyes? A quick inspection in the ladies room told me that, indeed, he was not exaggerating. As we got in the car to make the 2 1/2 hour drive to Danville, Vermont he and my Aunt told me in no uncertain terms that I was to take the next 60 hours (my time with them) to rest. No agendas, no trips anywhere, just rest, relaxation and the occasional walk. Sounded good to me.

My aunt and uncle are very special people and I’ve been coming to visit them in Vermont for 20 years, exactly. I graduated from college in 1988 and moved to Boston, just 3 hours away. At the time they were living in Groton, a small hamlet about 10 miles over the New Hampshire border about an hour south of where they live now. They had over 60 acres on a large hilltop overlooking New Hampshire’s White Mountains. The house they lived in had been designed by an artist and was covered with windows. It was beautiful, as were their many gardens that they spent a lot of hours on. It was heaven on earth to me. A place I could come and escape from the city; from the stress of beginning my accounting career with a Big 4 firm. This is my forth trip back since moving from Boston. They have always welcomed me with open arms anytime I needed a rest. This was no exception. They no longer live in the sprawling, sunny house on the hill (downsized due to upkeep) but it’s still heaven on earth.

My aunt and uncle and their two children lived overseas most of the time while I was growing up. He spent many years with the CIA, having been recruited for his language skills, and helped to start one of the original cold-war stations in Germany. They lived there on and off from 1957 to the early ’80’s.

Just before I was in Kindergarten my Aunt and my two cousins moved to Oconomowoc (my home town) while Uncle Jim did a tour of duty in Vietnam. My older cousin, Jeff, is 5 years older and wanted very little to do with his little sister and cousin. I remember him scaring me when I was younger; I was very shy. His little sister, Steff is more like a sister to me being only 10 months and a few days older. Uncle Jim and Steff used to visit quite a bit during the summers and we went to see the whole family in DC during the US Bicentennial.

My uncle used to tower over me at 6’6” and has had a handlebar mustache as long as I’ve known him. You can certainly pick him out in a crowd. He is unique and has a heart as big as the outdoors; being involved in many forms of community service, from the Rotary, the Boy Scouts, his church and driving cancer patients to their treatment appointments. He also is one of the best gift givers I’ve ever known. I used to get very well thought out and special gifts from around the world.
I got to know my Aunt a lot better during my many trips to Vermont back in the late ’80’s. She went to nursing school later in life, graduating in the late ’70’s. She and I used to have so much fun driving around Vermont seeing the different sites. Both of them came to visit me in New Zealand in 2006 and that trip is one of the highlights of my life. We took a week and drove around the East Cape of New Zealand and then spent a few days in Hawkes Bay, eating and drinking to our hearts content! It was wonderful.

So, now I’m nearing the end of my 2 1/2 days with them and feeling much more rested than when I came. I’ve spent a lot of time reading, napping, walking and talking to these two beloved people. They are both 76 now, but their minds remain sharp even if their bodies are slowing. They are both interested in politics (Obama supporters from the beginning) and world events. We have interesting conversations against a backdrop of the ever present classical music. We are all older, but visiting them in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont is still heaven on earth!

Chicago, 10 - 11 June 008

2008-06-16T05:46:00.000-07:00

I got out of the cab at Anna’s door and fell into her arms crying. I hadn’t actually realised that I was so stressed. The lack of sleep due to my bouts of insomnia (much less frequent now, though with the asthma attack of the night before I only had 3 hours), my inability to breath, my flea bites and the general stress of visiting my mother and seeing my soon to be be ex-mother in law for the first time since I left her son had taken it’s toll. Anna is one of those rare friends with whom I can be completely authentic and I knew that I could fall into her arms crying and she’d understand. She’d let me cry.

We had less than 24 hours together but made the most of it, never letting the conversation lag. I worked with her in Austin at TMP. Since then we’ve both gotten married and divorced, she’s had a kid and moved to Chicago and I, of course have moved to New Zealand. This was the first time we’ve been alone together since all of that happened. We had a lot to catch up on and I think we did. We also had a nice lunch and a great sushi dinner (probably the best I’ve ever had...with my Las Vegas sushi connection coming a close second). Thank you for being such a great friend!

Nashville, 8 - 10 June 2008

2008-06-16T05:41:00.000-07:00

Mom picked me up from the airport and we headed straight to dinner. I decided to treat her to a new restaurant I heard about in San Diego; the Melting Pot. It’s a fondue restaurant and the full experience includes a cheese course (Wisconsin three cheese medley for us, of course), a salad (I had the California with gorgonzola and roasted walnuts and she had the house), the main (Lobster, shrimp, chicken and veggies in a coq au vin broth) and dessert (chocolate, caramel and pecans, flaming with strawberries, bananas and assorted sweets to dip). It was yummy!!!!!

Mom and I had a good time while I visited. We saw “Sex in the City” one day and shopped the next (ahhhh, proper malls, one of the true delights of the US). The trip was marred by the fact that I couldn’t breath the entire time I was there and that I left covered head to toe in flea bites. The asthma came from the fact that the house she lives in is over 200 years old and has lots of dust, dust mites and mold. That and her two cats. Hence the fleas. It took 2 days to recover from the asthma attack (after finally using my Aunt’s prescription for Advair) and 3 days and counting for the fleas. I look like I’ve got a bad case of the measles. I will need to find another way to see my mother. I’m never going back there again. I haven’t had an attack like that in years.

Kristen's Graduation Church Service

2008-06-08T11:33:00.000-07:00

Heather, the Electronic Arts major, showing me some cool effects on my new computer

2008-06-07T12:42:00.000-07:00

Kristen's Graduation

2008-06-07T12:17:00.001-07:00

Recap of Leadership Academy and Detroit, 7th June 2008

2008-06-04T16:54:00.000-07:00

Insomnia again. I had cracked it during the week this week and was sleeping quite soundly but only got about 2 hours Thursday night after the course ended due to going to the bar with my fellow participants and celebrating until after 1AM. My alarm rang at 4:30 and I woke up earlier than that because I was so wired. I arrived at Vanessa's today (more on that later) and really thought I'd be able to sleep but after an hour woke up and am now pretty wide awake. I decided to navigate the still very uncertain terrain of the wireless Internet (I got my iPod to work and thought I'd try my laptop). I'm not sure what I actually did to get it to work but it seems to be working. That's how I operate though, just start playing with stuff until it works and figure out how it works later (I can feel Brad's frustration all the way across the Pacific and the US). :)

So the Tony Robbins course that I attended this week was Leadership Academy. I wasn't really sure what to expect. You're never really sure what to expect with his courses until you get there. This is my fifth Tony Robbins event and I have to say the best. By a mile! And that's saying something because at least 2 of the first four were pretty freakin' awesome, one was excellent and one was just plain good. But this one! Oh my God!

This one pulled back the curtain and started to expose some of the tools that Tony and his team use to create change in people, systems and environments. Not only did it expose these tools but it taught them to the participants so that we can all use them in the world to create positive change in our own lives and those we touch. It's also the first course in my ultimate goal to become a trainer. I can honestly say that I've never learned as much from one course, book, experience or event than I learned from this one. That and the fact that Tony's training style (based on Neuro Linguistic Programming amongst other things) makes sure that you have fun learning what you learn. This was also one of the most fun weeks of my life. This was all topped by being with the best team I've ever been with and getting to a level with this team that I've never been before, with the possible exception of being in the military...and that experience for me was more from a fringe perspective than right in the middle of it. This group of people was (is) extraordinary and I was blessed to share this week and to work with each and every one of them.

So, not only did I learn some tools which will create positive change in my life and hopefully many many other peoples lives, I had a great time doing it and heard some of the best speakers I've ever heard in my life.

One of our guest speakers was a self-professed "Ragin' Cajun". An incredible woman who used to work for the FBI doing profiling, coached Bill Clinton through his court appearances, is coaching Barrack Obama right now and has written several books on her subject which is body language. Her name is a Jan Hargrave. Another was an even more incredible woman named Robyn Benecasa who is one of the "fittest women in the US. She was on the first American team in 2000 in Borneo to win the Eco Challenge. She's a top adventure racer (for those of you who don't know what that is google it and be amazed!!!) a fire fighter for the city of San Diego and an excellent public speaker on team building (you need a good team to race non stop for 10 days in the jungles of Borneo or wherever). She's also an amazingly feminine and powerful woman. Definitely a highlight for men and women alike in our crowd.

As if they had to top that....they invited Charlie Wilson, subject of the new movie "Charlie Wilson's War" starring Tom Hanks and Julia Roberts to talk about his experiences in funding the covert operation against the Russian army in Afghanistan. The point being, sometimes it only takes one person with persistence and determination to change the world. Think what you will about the ramifications of that and the rise of Al Quaida, but the man did change the world. Bless him, he's new to the speaking circuit and it looks as if his fast life has caught up with him healthwise but he was incredibly interesting.

On our last day we saw Chloe Madanes, the US foremost family therapist (voted by her peers 10 years running) who is working with Tony several projects taking this work into the therapeutic community. She was incredible also. She sounds and looks a bit like Dr. Ruth but what a force to be reckoned with! I was truly struck by the lives she's touched. The amount of people she's kept out of the mental health system and off drugs (prescription) is incredible.

And if all of the above wasn't enough we ended our 5 days by breaking through an inch thick piece of solid wood. So, I've now walked on hot coals, jumped off of a 58 foot pole, and smashed through a piece of wood with my bear hands. There's truly nothing that I can't do after those experiences!!!!

I can't wait to test these new skills out in a couple of weeks when I attend my first course as a leader in San Francisco.

Enough about Tony, on to the rest of my trip. As I said, I flew to Vanessa's today. For those of you who don't know her she's my best friend from college and my Matron of Honour from my wedding. Her middle daughter, Kristen is graduating from high school tomorrow and I flew in to see that and spend time with the family. All three girls are tremendous, thanks to excellent parenting by Ness and Matt. Heather, the oldest just finished her freshman year in art school. She has an incredible talent and is also writing not one, but two books (science fiction / fantasy). Kristen has been accepted into the honours program at Ohio State (our alma matter) for Chemical Engineering and Robyn, their youngest, will start high school in the fall. All three have always maintained straight A's, all are into athletics, band and drama. They are amazing kids and I'm so blessed to be here and be part of the festivities this weekend. Coincidentally I stood up at Kristen's baptism about 17 years ago when they were living in Florida. That was the last time Vanessa and I have spent any time alone together. We're meeting up in Boston week after next for 4 days of girl fun. I can't wait.

In addition to seeing Matt, Vanessa and the girls I'm also getting to spend time with Vanessa's parents, whom I haven't seen since their wedding 20 years ago (we all look a bit older). :)

Okay, that's all for right now. I'm going to shut down and get some shut eye.

San Diego, 31 May 2008

2008-05-31T23:51:00.001-07:00

Technically it's the first of June, just after midnight. Yes, I'm still awake. I did manage to sleep late into the morning this morning so feel pretty good. My room mate, a woman named Janet arrived this morning. We had a great breakfast in the dining room, registered for the course which begins tomorrow and I went off to the mall.

Ahhh, the mall. I truly know I'm in the States now. All of my favourite stores. Big stores with lots of stuff. The variety, the selection, the price! Dollar for dollar everything is so much cheaper than it is in New Zealand. I'm enjoying the high exchange rate.

I didn't do a lot of browsing though. I was on a mission. New laptop (Macbook Pro after almost an hour deliberating between that and the Macbook Air). I chose power and really, really clear, crisp graphics over weight. I may come to regret my decision over the next two months of travelling. I also bought software including Adobe Photoshop (at the request of the burgeoning photographer) and a new case for my iPod so I can wear it on my hip when I work out. Now I'm set...or will be once I get the hot pink neoprene case in which to cocoon my new baby. Had to order that online (which, of course I did from my new iPod). :)

I also bought a new chain for the beautiful pendant that my office gave me (cats eye shell...another piece of New Zealand) so I can wear that along with the extraordinary piece of greenstone that my HD committee gave me before I left.

Finally I carried it all home in my new suitcase. It's smaller than my old one. Again, I hope I don't regret that decision during the next two months. At least it will force me to pack light(ish).

Before I left the mall though I treated myself to one of the true luxuries of being Stateside...Ben and Jerry's ice cream. A double scoop of Cherry Garcia and a new flavour I hadn't yet encountered. Cinnamon Bun (think Cinnabon in a cup). Not sure if I spelled that correctly, BTW.

I had a quick dinner at a fondue restaurant I'd never heard of before called The Melting Pot. Great salad with chicken and veggies simmered in a broth fondue. Yummy.

At 6 I had a massage to help me relax so I could sleep tonight...as you can tell that worked well.

Seriously, though my lack of sleep tonight is stage two of being in the States. Mild annoyance being stage one (still going through that a bit today hearing people crack their gum and being exposed to uncountable numbers of mis-behaving (screaming) children. I've said it once I'll say it a thousand times...children in NZ are MUCH better behaved than they are in the States (adults too really).

Stage two is appreciating the good things (Ben and Jerry's and shopping in nice malls with nice stores with lots of shiny things in them). Stage two also has a lot to do with the fact that I'm just now realising, really that I'm on vacation for the next two months. Although I have things to do (places to go, people to see) I don't really have any responsibility. How cool is that?

I lay in bed and this kind of euphoria came over me. I think it also has to do with the very unique place I am in my life. A break between two lives really and I get to reinvent myself. Again!

San Diego, May 31, 2008

2008-05-31T01:17:00.000-07:00

Barely.

Well, the insomnia continues. I fell dead asleep at 8:30 after gorging myself on Mexican food but woke up at 11:30 wide awake. Thought I'd take the opportunity to write this. I don't know how much time I'll have during the first Tony Robbins course I'll have, or even if I'll have anything memorable or interesting to write.

My first few hours in the States were predictable. I was struck with the low grade irritation I always get when I first arrive. Americans are loud. They just are. I know I am one, but put us in a group and, my God, it's deafening sometimes. We can also be brash and completely unaware of ourselves. It puts my nerves on end when I first get here. That, and the technology and amount of information that bombards you from every source possible. Cell phones, PDA's, lap tops...they're everywhere and everyone has one. Myself included by the way. You'll have to pry my new iPod touch out of my cold dead hands. :) But it's overwhelming to see everyone connected all the time. Then there is the constant stream of cable TV shouting new headlines and sports at you constantly. Does my head in.

But that doesn't even compare to the annoyance that I feel from hearing the PA at the airport blather on about "security condition orange", whatever that is, or the flight attendant on the Southwest flight from San Francisco to San Diego advising us not to stand in line at the bathroom door and not to pass anyone in the aisle for heaven's sake!!!! People have asked me why I'm not moving back to the States? This paragraph sums it up. Why would I want to live in a place where security levels are a way of life and you can't stand in line when you have to pee? Why does anyone want to live in a society like that? Hopefully the next election will see us "throw the bums out" and we can all stand up and say enough! But I think that's being optimistic. Scare mongering is big business and I'm afraid the Dems will want to cash in just as much as the Republicans have. Okay, enough of my rant on George Bush. I really will be up all night.

Dinner was not memorable, unfortunately. I asked for a recommendation on Mexican (Sorry Don I lost that email with yours) and was told to go to Jose's Courtroom. It was a very loud Cantina with 2 screens showing 2 different ESPN channels. I was watching a baseball game and could not for the life of me figure out who was playing...until I realised it was a college game. You know you're in the US when... The Piston's were also playing the Celtics in an NBA playoff game but I couldn't see that TV as well. Two margaritas, possibly the worst queso I've ever had and some totally average fajitas...it was a disappointment to say the least. But, there's always tomorrow night.

Okay, so I feel like I have to put something positive in about being back "home". And the positives really have to be the level of service that you get here. While New Zealand is certainly not as bad as Australia and, God knows, the UK it just doesn't compare to the US. I've decided I don't mind tipping. I like be served professionally, quickly, efficiently and in a friendly manner and I'm happy to pay for it.

My room mate arrives tomorrow and the course starts Sunday. Hopefully I'll have a chance to relax and, dare I say it? Sleep!!!! Not to mention buying a cell phone, lap top and, oh yeah...a new suitcase.

Leaving Auckland, May 30,2008

2008-05-31T00:53:00.000-07:00

What a day it's been! I thought my last day in Auckland would be relaxing, but no. In my usual style I ended up running around trying to pack too much into the day. The movers were late, coming at almost 9AM to get my last 5 boxes (everything else had been packed up and removed the week before). I was supposed to be out the door by 10:00. I made it by 10:15, not bad. Then off to the chiro for one last adjustment (I told him it had to be good enough to last for 2 1/2 months). Then to meet Brad for lunch and finally for a mani /pedi. I made it to the office a little after 3PM to send a couple of last minute emails and then at 4:00 I left for the airport.

Sounds simple, doesn't it? I left for the airport. It was actually much harder than that. After 6 years of blood, sweat and more than a few tears I left the Auckland office. I wouldn't be coming in on Monday (well, Tuesday since it's long weekend in Auckland). I've never worked so hard (or so long) in one place. I've never accomplished as much as I have there. In the end I had to run out the door, not being able to look anyone in the eye, much less leave them with hugs barely making it before I dissolved in tears. I cried half way to the airport and a bit on the plane. I'm crying a bit now writing this. But all in all I know it's the right choice and I leave feeling so pleased with Megs taking over and the people in the office now. No one's irreplaceable and life will go on. Now I'm going on to my next big adventure.

I knew a trip like this would not be without hitches and my first one came before I even left work. My suitcase broke. I couldn't put the handle down so I had deal with that, which turned out to be not much of a hassle...I just had to check it into over sized bags. Funnily enough, when it came out on the other end, in San Francisco it came out in the regular baggage. My much smaller yoga mat came out in over sized bags. Go figure.

Now, for any of you who have ever read "The Secret" I'm here to tell you it works. Ronil at work suggested I upgrade to business class so I could sleep. Not a bad idea, so I did the day before I left. At least I thought I did. I was put on upgrade standby. I kept thinking about it and imagining myself reclining in the new seats that Air New Zealand has that actually fold down completely horizontally into a bed. When I got to the airport I bypassed the huddling masses in line and went straight to premium check in. Turns out they didn't have my upgrade in the computer. I won't bore you all with the gory details but there was something messed up in my records. I spent the next hour and 1/2 trying to sort it out with Air New Zealand and House of Travel (it became my mission in the end) and they finally got it sorted. So, I go to the gate with my upgrade request and my knowledge that there were still 2 seats available in Business Class - only to find out that there were 23 people on the wait list. I, apparently was number 14.

To add insult to injury, for some reason my seat was changed to one further back. I hate riding in the back of the plane so the woman at the gate called to find out why. Never did find out the reason but she managed to put me back in my original seat in cattle class firmly telling me there would be no upgrade today. As I was walking away from the counter however the phone rang and I heard her say, really? She called my back to the counter to hand my my boarding pass for seat 1J - in Business Class. I could have kissed her!

This upgrade stuff is quite extraordinary. The seats are incredible. I felt like Mork from Mork and Mindy in my own little egg. You get a footrest (that doubles as a guest seat so you can entertain), a big seat that can be in any position during take off and landing, and the aforementioned bed. Pretty cool. Not to mention the service. Bubbly before take off and a 4 course dinner. The food wasn't much better than back in cattle class but there certainly was a lot of it.

The bed didn't help me to sleep though. I've had insomnia for the last 2 weeks and it was not going to be abated that night. Shame though, I never have trouble sleeping on planes and when I get an actual bed I lie tossing and turning.

Watched 3 movies though. "Charlie Wilson's War" (Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts and the ever brilliant Phillip Seymour Hoffman). Written by Aaron Sorkin, another perennial fav. Awesome. I also watched Bonneville with Jessica Lange and Cathy Bates. Not too bad. During breakfast I watched a doco on Annie Liebowitz. Really cool, especially for the burgeoning photographer I fancy myself to be.

Around the World in 60 Days

2008-05-10T20:01:00.000-07:00

Okay, so I'm not really going around the world in 60 days. What I am doing on the 30th of May is leaving for a 2 month long "sabbatical" where I spend almost a month in the States (2 Tony Robbins courses and visiting friends / family), almost a week at a resort in Phuket, Thailand, (a destination that's been on my list for almost 20 years), a month in India studying Ashtanga Yoga with 92 year old Pattabhi Jois, founder of that tradition, and 3 days in Hong Kong (because I can).

I leave Hong Kong on 3rd of August and arrive in Sydney on the 4th. My plane leaves Sydney for Auckland later that day, but I won't be on it. After 6 years of living in New Zealand I've decided to move to Sydney and Robert Half has graciously agreed to employ me over there. More about Sydney later.

What I intend to do in this blog is to chronicle my trip. No doubt it will be fun, challenging and life changing (both inside and out). So, come with me on my adventure of a lifetime (so far).